‘Big wines’ not necessarily better

I must take exception to Emily Green’s extolling the virtues of what she calls “big wines” (“Too Big? Too Rich? Never!”, Jan. 7). She needs to drink more French wines. Obviously, she hasn’t tried some of the Syrahs from Provence or the northern Rhone that make many of the California offerings look like Beaujolais. Has she had the Merlot-based Pomerols from the ’95 or 2000 vintages? They are big, and in many cases over-extracted beyond California standards.

Besides, why pick on the French? The fact is, they make the only wines they can, just like California, Italy, Spain and Germany. It’s not about climate as much as it is about latitude and soils. Like I’ve been telling my students for 20 years when they ask who makes the best wine: California makes the best California wine in the world. France makes the best French wine in the world.

Ed Masciana

General manager,

Peralta Family Wine Co.

Torrance

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Thanks for an excellent article on the BIG California wines. I have never been able to articulate my love for the bold Cabs and Zinfandels produced in our state.

Ralph Hawkins

Los Angeles

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I am saddened by the tone of Green’s jingoistic article in praise of big California red wines. Calling people who prefer European wines with finesse and nuance “wine snobs” is as insulting as it is provincial. California wine regions are blessed with loads of sunshine, which provide winemakers with super-ripe grapes high in sugar and extract. The resulting high alcohol makes for a potent drink, but California wines have their limitations. Super-ripe wines lack the acidity to complement most foods. High-alcohol wine is volatile in the glass, making the taste of big reds sweet when drunk alone but often bitter with food.

Randy Kemner

Proprietor, the Wine Country

Signal Hill

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I enjoy wines that cost $8 and wines that cost many times more than that. I suspect there are many others like myself in this regard. Does this make us snobs? Do you honestly believe that because someone enjoys a pricey bottle of wine they think they are superior to someone else? Do me a favor and substitute the word “people” for “snobs” next time. As you can see, I am a very sensitive snob who drinks a $12 Pinot on Tuesdays.

Steve Underwood

Fountain Valley

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Along with many of my wine friends, I was appalled by Green’s article. Her central point seems to be that Californians who don’t care for “big” California wines are ingrates and snobs. Can you imagine a serious music critic claiming that someone who preferred Mozart over Mahler was a music snob?

Bruce Leiserowitz

Los Angeles