2002 William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux

A terrific Chablis at this price seems unbelievable, but there it is. Champs Royaux from the respected producer William Fevre is not a single vineyard. It’s actually made from a number of terroirs in Chablis, but vinified and aged exactly the same as the estate’s premier and grand crus. However they did it, the result is a pretty wonderful Chablis, lean and minerally compared with most California Chardonnays, with a bright snap of acidity that calls for oysters. Immediately. By the dozens.

Like all Chablis, it’s beautiful with other chilled shellfish too -- think piles of clams, chilled crab and shrimp. And bring on the steamed mussels. At this price, you can afford to both cook with it and drink it.

S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $14

Style: Lean and minerally

Food it goes with: Oysters, chilled seafood, steamed mussels and clams, first courses, sauteed sole and other fish.

Where you find it: Manhattan Liquor in Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454; Morry’s of Naples in Long Beach, (562) 433-0405; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, (800) 76WINEX; Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.