‘Cue in L.A.

Mr. Cecil’s California Ribs

The succulent baby back and beef ribs may be the stars at this designer shack, but we can’t get enough of the sides: subtly sweet baked beans laced with bacon, crunchy coleslaw with a horseradish kick and fabulous golden fries. (Lard works wonders.) Feeling decadent? Start with hushpuppies, served warm with honey and butter.

* Half rack ribs, $14.95; baby back and beef rib combo, $21.50; 13625 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 905-8400.

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Phillip’s Bar-B-Que

There are few aromas better than the one around this shoebox-size, takeout-only Leimert Park institution. (A large contingent of barbecue aficionados thinks the beef and pork ribs here are simply the town’s finest.) Eating in the car? Consider a sandwich. Perhaps chicken links or sliced beef with a complex hot sauce.

* Beef or pork ribs dinner, $10.50; sandwiches, $5.25 to $7.50; 4307 Leimert Blvd., Leimert Park, (323) 292-7613.

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Dr. Hogly Wogly’s Tyler Texas B-B-Q

It looks like a joint from the outside. But it’s a step up from your standard counter: a full-

service restaurant with red vinyl booths. Waitresses in neckerchiefs serve platters of brisket and spareribs. Add some mayonnaise-

laden macaroni salad, and you’ll know why many patrons move a bit more slowly on the way out.

* Brisket dinner, $16.95; spareribs dinner, $16.95; 8136 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 782-2480.

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Barbecue King

This spot on the edge of downtown L.A. attracts a diverse crowd united in the quest for ‘cue. First-

timers may consider the sampler: moist, smoky chicken, peppery links, meaty ribs and tender sliced beef, all in a tangy, mahogany-

hued sauce. Like all of the lunches, this one comes with two sides. The mac and cheese is mandatory.

* Sampler basket, $10; 867 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A. (213) 437-0885.

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Gyu-Kaku

The latest incarnation in a chain of casual but stylish do-it-yourself Japanese barbecue restaurants, this new San Fernando Valley outpost is packing ‘em in. Whether you’re craving garlicky shrimp or slices of Kobe-style beef, you’d be wise to make a reservation. Save room for s’mores for dessert.

* Butterflied shrimp, $7.95; U.S. Kobe kalbi, $17.95; s’mores, $2.95; 14457 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 501-5400.

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-- Leslee Komaiko