2003 Bodegas Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero

An impressive wine from a cache of ungrafted Tempranillo vines, most of which are more than 100 years old. This gives the wine concentration, but also a kind of gracefulness. Smooth and polished, with great depth of fruit and a deep garnet color, the 2003 Dominio de Atauta has the breeding and finesse of a much more expensive wine. Though it comes from a tiny village an hour north of everybody else in Ribera, this wine is a citizen of the world that could keep the fanciest of company.

It’s a fabulous wine for the money. Drink it now, drink it later, but drink it. I’d have it with roast duck or pigeon, with a rosy rack of lamb or lamb shank braised with white beans.

Quick swirl

Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain

Price: About $38

Style: Rich and full-bodied

Food it goes with: Roast duck or pigeon, rack of lamb, braised lamb shank.

Where you find it: Fair Market in Santa Monica, (310) 450-3450; Mel & Rose Liquor & Deli, (323) 655-5557; Vendome Liquors in Fullerton, (714) 524-0800; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; and the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.