DefCon 3 for the Endive

Things have gotten ugly on the foreign trade front over paprika, dried or crushed. Emotions are running high about witloof chicory. Batten the hatches for more trouble in the Saffron War.

Trade, especially agricultural trade, is one of those baffling global processes that seems to happen quietly on docks, well out of sight and mind of most of us. We eat the stuff, and who cares where it came from? Consumers become aware only when some parochial dispute plops a pothole into the trade road and affects other commodities, usually in the form of higher costs. Enter brown rice.

In September, the European Union unilaterally altered its rice import system, raising tariffs on brown rice above a level negotiated with the United States. American brown rice exports to the EU do not affect traffic congestion on the 405, but they are a big deal in Arkansas and Louisiana, where they account for about $30 million a year in sales.

Under the hard-won but arcane terms of existing trade agreements, the United States and the EU have six months to devise compensation, such as breaks for other goods. That period ends March 1. Other clauses require the U.S. to give 30 days’ notice before any retaliation, and that’s what just happened. The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative has solemnly warned the World Trade Organization and the EU that it may soon boost tariffs on certain agricultural goods exported by Europe. This is kind of like going to DefCon 3.

On the list of targets are some yogurts, paprika (dried, crushed or ground), truffles, olives (not green though), sauerkraut, mandarins (including tangerines and satsumas), clementines, wilkings and similar citrus hybrids (dried or fresh), not to mention Brussels sprouts and frozen antipasto, “prepared or preserved other than by vinegar or acetic acid.” Also on the list is witloof chicory, otherwise known as Belgian endive, and the high-priced crocus parts known as saffron, plus some processed cheeses “nesoi,” which turns out to be universal trade talk for “not elsewhere specified or indicated.” Yummy.

With the nation’s military already spread thin globally, the fleet is not yet leaving Norfolk harbor. But the talk hints of battle. “It’s time for the United States to let the EU know there is a price to pay,” one USA Rice Federation official warned.

No doubt in the business of government trade negotiations, tough talk and deadlines are the spice of life. For us consumers, however, the list of retaliation products reads more like some strange multilateral salad. Serve chilled, quick, before the price of nesoi goes up.