Location, location ... where?

It’s an old trick, but one that seems to bring in a wave of trend-seekers almost every time: Open a restaurant but keep the address or phone number close to the vest so it seems like a hot item, only for the cognoscenti. In this case, Venice Cantina, the latest restaurant and lounge from the team behind Hollywood’s Paladar and Nacional, goes unmarked.

Sssh, don’t say a word.

On a wintry night, Windward Avenue in Venice, a block from the beach, was desolate. I couldn’t believe my luck when I spotted four -- four! -- empty parking spaces. In summer, the place would be jammed, but not now.

I pulled into one of the spaces. It was too dark to see if there was some kind of diabolical meter policy in place, but a laid-back guy in a knit watch cap leaning against a wall in front saw me peering at the meter and offered up the answer: You don’t have to pay.

Swell. But where was the restaurant? I couldn’t see any street numbers, just the century-old St. Mark’s Hotel building down the block, with a youth hostel sign sprouting from the second floor. As we approached, two burly guys in black called out, “Venice Cantina?” Yep, that’s us.

The layout doesn’t look all that different from Drake’s, the last place to grace the premises. Big bar. Cavernous L-shaped dining room. Upstairs, another bar and lounge that’s a touch cozier. There’s been a color shift, though. Now the walls are a deep scarlet and the banquettes are covered in a black and white floral pattern.

The theme is “updated Mexican, lighter and healthier,” the waiter volunteered to explain. Though it’s a little early to assess this kitchen, which is under the direction of former Paladar chef Jason Cline, “healthier” seems to mean lacing the smooth, bland guacamole with shredded red cabbage -- which wreaks havoc on the guac’s texture. The chips are straight out of the bag, not the fryer. But the salsas on the table are textured and complex.

Cline has brought his grilled corn on the cob over from Paladar’s menu. It’s delicious, slightly smoky and topped with crumbled cotija cheese. On the lighter side, you can get a jicama and watercress salad or mixed baby greens topped with a fresh corn salsa.

Other appetizers include sopes -- fat griddled masa cakes topped with black beans and shrimp, carne asada or chicken -- and taquitos filled with chicken, mashed potatoes and poblano chiles.

Our waiter was keen on the rotisserie chicken rubbed with chipotle and raspberries. The chiles are the merest of accents, though. What comes through strongest is the taste of raspberry jam. Not my favorite.

Those who would rather be eating deep-fried catfish at Chinois can get their fried fish fix with a crunchy whole tilapia. You can order your tacos crispy or soft, stuffed with ground turkey, rotisserie chicken, carnitas or grilled skirt steak. Cline’s twist on the cheese enchilada is that it’s made with aged cheddar cheese and topped with jicama slaw. If the traditional rice and beans doesn’t do it for you, substitute fluffy quinoa for the rice and skip the beans.

Save those calories for frozen margaritas or a shot of premium tequila. I suspect that’s going to be the draw, more than the healthy cuisine, at Venice Cantina.

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Venice Cantina

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Where: 23 Windward Ave.,

Venice Beach

When: Open 4 to 11 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

Full bar. Valet parking.

Cost: Appetizers, salads and soups, $4 to $10; tacos, burritos and enchiladas, $8 to $12; rotisserie, $14; house specialties, $17 to $26; desserts, $7 to $10.

Info: (310) 399-8420