2003 Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf- du-Pape

Popes throughout history have liked their juice, and when the papal see moved to Avignon in the 13th century, that juice was Chateauneuf-du-Pape (“the pope’s new castle”) made from grapes grown nearby in the southern Rhone. The castle is a ruin now, the papal court long gone back to Rome, but the wines that bear the pope’s coat of arms emblazoned on the bottle are still produced more or less according to the long-standing recipe. Not every winemaker uses all 13 of the grapes in the proscribed blend, though. At Domaine Grand Veneur, an estate that dates to 1826, Alain Jaune and his sons Sebastien and Christophe emphasize Grenache blended with Syrah and Mourvedre.

What a sweet Chateauneuf this is for the price! It has everything going for it -- deep ruby color, a scent of ripe dark cherries, espresso and pepper that leaps out of the glass. Tannins are definitely there, but softened. In this super Chateauneuf, it’s hard to tell where the terroir stops and the wise winemaking begins.

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Quick swirl

Region: Southern Rhone

Price: About $28

Style: Lush and concentrated.

Food it goes with: Roasted squab or duck, grilled meats, leg of lamb, daubes

Where you find it: Los Angeles Wine Co. in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-9463; the Wine Cask in Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731.