Cool craving

With summer (and bikini season) officially here, it’s time to lighten up. A chilled seafood cocktail is just what the doctor ordered.

The Lobster

Never mind that chef Allyson Thurber is allergic to this seaside eatery’s namesake dish. She knows what to do with the stuff. For her lobster cocktail, she nests bite-size pieces of lobster on a bed of romaine and radicchio. This is accompanied by a side of lemon tarragon aioli. Thurber also offers her own take on crab Louie, with Dungeness crab. She uses the section of crab known as the fry leg, the biggest and best part.

* Lobster cocktail $18; crab Louie cocktail $15. 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 458-9294.

The Grill on the Alley

Five expertly cooked black tiger shrimp -- big boys -- star in the classic shrimp cocktail served at this industry hangout. They come with the requisite lemon wedges as well as plenty of spunky, house-made, horseradish-spiked cocktail sauce. There’s also a Dungeness crab cocktail, served straight-up with that same sauce.

* Shrimp cocktail $13.75; Dungeness crab cocktail $14.25. 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-0615.

La Serenata Gourmet

This casual spinoff of the Boyle Heights institution serves a refreshing shrimp cocktail in a large glass bowl that makes a delicious light meal on its own. The chilled tomato broth is laced with onion, cucumber and avocado and jazzed up with jalapeno. A final garnish of cilantro and a side of saltines complete the picture.

* Shrimp cocktail $8.50. 10924 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A. (310) 441-9667.

Jar

Among the irresistible starters at Suzanne Tracht’s stylish dining room? A lobster cocktail made with big chunks of Maine lobster, juicy segments of Oro Blanco grapefruit and avocado. Fennel and onion add crunch. (All the produce is from local purveyors.) A sprite jalapeno vinaigrette pulls everything together.

* Lobster cocktail $16. 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323) 655-6566.

Musso & Frank Grill

One definition of happiness: a booth at this 1919 Hollywood institution and a Dungeness crab cocktail, a generous serving of sweet, tender crab morsels with a side of classic cocktail sauce. Or choose lobster or shrimp. They go beautifully with one of Musso’s textbook martinis.

* Crab cocktail $14.50. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 467-7788.