Buffed Out

If you want to know if a fellow is well-dressed, goes the old adage, look down. Since the reign of Beau Brummell, who ostensibly had his boots polished with champagne, rumors about secret formulas have abounded. Marvin Earle, who operates six Marvin’s Complimentary Shoe Shines stands at Los Angeles International Airport, reveals how to get beaming brogues.

What’s the biggest problem with men and their shoes?

There are a lot of guys with nice-looking suits, but their shoes need a shine desperately. Businessmen say the first thing they notice when they meet a client--and whether the deal is going to go through--is by the shoes. I tell ‘em, “You can’t make a deal with a dirty heel.”

Where did you learn your craft?

I learned to shine in San Francisco Airport. I’ve been around to Chicago, St. Louis, Dallas and looked at the way people shine shoes and learned how to put on the best shine. Men need to learn about the chemicals applied to their shoes, because many expensive dress shoes have been ruined by cheap-quality products.

So how do you get the best shine?

Some places use wax and water, but wax and oil is the real old way of spit shining. You want to put on a leather conditioner before you apply the wax. Then you apply the wax on top of that, brush it in real well and give it a buff. To get that glass look, you spray it with an oil called spit-shine spray. You don’t use water, because that would defeat the purpose of the conditioner. The last thing you want to put on is the sole dressing around the perimeter of the bottom of the shoe; that’s what gives it the new look.

What’s the best technique for buffing?

High-speed buffing is with two hands, applying pressure with the rag back and forth. You have to really press on the shoe to get the high gloss to come out of the shoe. Brushes are applied when you put the conditioner and the wax on the shoe. Then you go to the rag and start to buff.

How fast can you do this, and what does it cost?

I can shine [a pair] in five minutes. We work for tips; most men give us $3 to $5.

How long will a good shine last?

Two or three weeks.

What should a man do between shines?

The best way to keep your shoes looking new is to always use a shoe tree, and keep a rag to wipe [dust] off the shoes.

I’ve heard of shoe-shiners using a flame.

The flame basically melts the wax on the shoe, but it also stresses the leather. It doesn’t do anything; it’s just entertaining the person who’s getting their shoes shined. They do it in Reno a lot. The casinos out there, they set the shoes on fire and melt the wax.

What’s a hard shine?

That’s when you apply four coats of wax. You apply more wax, work extra-long and do a better rub-in with the wax.

So how often are you impressed with a man’s shoes?

Probably once a week someone comes through with some really nice shoes. And most guys with very expensive shoes are kind of quiet.

So the guy who’s into suits may be more flashy, but the guy who understands shoes is more understated?

Exactly.