Ask the Critic: S. Irene Virbila

Question: How do you get a great table at a restaurant?

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Virbila: Sometimes it’s as simple as just asking. If nobody else has requested that particular table, the maitre d’ may just give it to you. But that, I admit, is a rare occurrence.

A surer bet is to become a regular at a restaurant and cultivate a relationship with the staff. I’m not talking slipping the maitre d’ a $20 bill for a good table. I don’t think that really passes muster here in L.A., or at least not these days. Get to know the names or numbers of the tables you covet, and the next time you make a reservation, ask for a particular table. Most hosts will say they’ll make a note, but they can’t guarantee it. It’s also a good policy to reiterate your request when you call to confirm.

I’ve seen people throw a hissy fit when they don’t get their usual table. This is not pretty and will most likely ensure that they will never get it again in their lifetimes. Politely asking will get you much further. The truth of the matter is that regulars do get the best tables. It is, after all, only fair.

While you may not always be able to secure the table of your dreams, you can usually get a better table by this strategy: Before the hostess picks up those menus and leads your party to that lovely table by the bathroom or a foot away from the waiters’ station, note the location of empty tables. Surely not every one has been particularly requested. And if you do get the table from hell, don’t sit down until you’ve made sure there’s not an alternative table available. Personally, I’d rather eat at the bar than sit at that table right near the door or next to that table of loud drunks. In fact, I rather like eating in the bar.

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