And we’re off

THE big-brimmed, black spring hat is a family heirloom. It’s made of heavy woven straw and has a turned-down rim and a flirty grosgrain-ribbon bow.

The Hat belonged to my mother. She grew up in Louisville, home of the Kentucky Derby, but could never afford to attend the race. She and Dad moved to California a few years after they married, and the big black hat came with them.

Last year, when I was lucky enough to go to the Derby, the vintage hat returned with me for Kentucky’s big annual celebration.

Louisville -- natives pronounce it Loovul or Loowevul -- pulls out all the stops on Derby Day, the first Saturday of May, when a select group of 3-year-old Thoroughbreds is loaded into the starting gates at Churchill Downs for the Run for the Roses. The city parties for two weeks in anticipation of the two-minute race.

Hats are a big part of the festivities. When I told female friends I was going, the first thing they asked was, “Do you have your hat yet?” Male friends slapped me on the back, and said, “Put a bet down for me.” So yes, betting is of consequence too, along with pounding hoofs, a roaring crowd and more than 100 years of Americana.

It’s a good time for visitors to get acquainted with Southern hospitality, Kentucky-style. That means fine bourbon, fast horses and a gracious welcome by hosts who are so polite their good manners seem foreign to non-Southerners.

“You can tell Northerners are in town for the race,” my Kentucky cousin Carla Brawner said on Derby Day last year. “They’re so rude.”

She had just been jostled for the third time while trying to walk through a crowd outside a restaurant. “A Southerner would apologize,” she fumed. “Northerners just ram into you and keep on walking.”

Of course, the Derby draws more than Northerners. More than 156,000 people from around the world attended last year. They got a look at the results of a three-year, $121-million renovation at Churchill Downs that added luxury suites and new public and private areas to the racetrack. There was criticism that the new design diminished the importance of the racetrack’s famous 101-year-old Twin Spires, but in general, people seemed pleased with the update.

Attending the 2005 Derby -- I covered it as a member of the press -- gave me a chance to walk the streets of the town where my parents grew up, revive family connections and learn a little about the spectacle that entrances this community every spring.

“For a race enthusiast, Louisville is heaven,” said local TV news anchor Caton Bredar, a former Los Angeles resident and granddaughter of Hall of Fame jockey Ted Atkinson. “Racing’s not important in L.A.; it’s just one of many things available. Here, racing embraces every aspect of the community. And this time of year is like no other.”

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On Millionaires Row

A few days before the Derby, I poked around renovated areas of Churchill Downs, seeing Millionaires Row -- a special area of the track reserved during Derby weekend for wealthy or well-connected fans -- and luxurious interior boxes with computerized betting screens and video race monitors.

There would be some big names in these seats and in other elite areas of the clubhouse a few days later. Last year’s Derby -- which surprised everyone when 50-1 longshot Giacomo galloped into history as the 131st winner -- drew celebrity billionaires Donald Trump and Richard Branson.

Haven’t bought your ticket yet for Saturday’s race? Join the crowd. Reserved-seat tickets for the world’s most famous horse race range from $75 to $600 but are nearly impossible to get; they’re sometimes held in families for decades. Visitors without tickets can do as Louisville residents do and find other ways to celebrate. Everywhere I went last year, I heard people greeting one another with: “Have a happy Derby.” They were high on the spirit of the event, flying flags in their yards and planning parties at home.

This year’s celebration started a week ago when the nation’s largest fireworks show, “Thunder Over Louisville,” kicked off the Derby party season. Among other activities: a hot-air balloon race, charity balls, a parade. Two steam-driven paddle-wheelers, the Belle of Louisville and its archrival the Delta Queen, will race down the Ohio River on Wednesday, with on-board tickets selling for $126. The Kentucky Oaks, a race for 3-year-old fillies, is held the day before the Derby and draws many locals.

Another well-known advance event is Dawn at the Downs, which I took in last year, paying $25 to watch Thoroughbreds exercise as the rising sun began to warm the chilly air at Churchill Downs. The event, scheduled this year for Monday through Thursday, included a breakfast of scrambled eggs, grits and country ham at a clubhouse restaurant. Then I leaned out over the balcony rail, watching the horses’ steamy breath as they flew by. If I had watched more carefully, perhaps I would have won one of last year’s $9,814 exactas.

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Kentucky’s finest

LIKE many Kentucky visitors, I used the race as an excuse to explore the state, starting with a 25-mile trip south to the Jim Beam Distillery in Clermont, Ky. The expensive bourbons that were on the tasting menu that day -- Basil Hayden’s and Booker’s -- were wonderful. I liked the flavors and smells so much, I headed south again to Maker’s Mark in Loretto, Ky., and east to Woodford Reserve, near Lexington, Ky. I unfortunately ran out of time before I got to the Wild Turkey Distillery in Lawrenceburg.

On another day, I met Smarty Jones, who smiled at me from his luxe stall at Three Chimneys Farm in Midway, Ky., east of Louisville. He can afford to be happy. Since winning the Derby and Preakness in 2004, he commands a $100,000 stud fee and nearly 100 mares are pregnant with his foals.

I also visited a few other working farms in the hills near Lexington, which has about 150 of them. I drove down narrow country lanes lined with maples and oaks and stopped to watch shaky foals just learning to walk. (Guests can’t just drop by; I made appointments.)

Back in Louisville, I worried about what I’d wear on the big day. But I didn’t worry about my hat. I knew its classic, vintage look would fit right in.

“About 90% or more of the women who attend wear hats,” said Anne Garvey of the upscale dress shop She of Louisville, where Derby hats sell for $175 to $650. “It’s a fun way to dress. The hat completes the look. And it’s practical too, keeping the sun off your face.”

Some people joke that the race is a rallying cry for the Mad Hatters of the world, who have an excuse to embellish Easter-style bonnets with flowers, ribbons, marabou and such oddities as miniature plastic horses and jockeys. But most of the hats aren’t silly; they’re pretty. And the Southern belles who sport them are wearing matching shoes and clutching matching handbags. It’s a look straight out of the ‘50s.

On race day, I slipped on my hat, a black-and-white dress and shoes and went to the race. I was in a reserved grandstand seat. Across the track from me was the infield, where partyers get drunk early and stay that way for as long as they can stand up. By the 10th race on the ticket -- the Derby -- about 75,000 people were jammed into the infield. Most probably weren’t there for the race. They were there to drink bourbon, mingle, make love on the grass and drink more bourbon.

In the high-rent district of the track -- the reserved seat areas-- people were also drinking bourbon. Many were quaffing the quintessential Derby beverage, the mint julep. For $9, race-goers get an ounce of Early Times (not exactly a sipping bourbon) mixed with sugar syrup, water, crushed ice and a sprig of mint. The first one I tasted was bad, the second one wasn’t much better. By the third, I didn’t care. It’s an old joke, but accurate.

I bet a little, won a little, bet some more, lost it all. Suddenly it was time for the 10th race: the Derby. Everyone stood to sing “My Old Kentucky Home,” a tradition that brings tears to many eyes. And then they were off. And with them went any chance I had to see the race. Everyone in front of me clambered atop their chairs to scream encouragement to their horses. I climbed on mine too, but I couldn’t see anything.

Still, it was great fun.

When some people I met at the race asked me if I’d like to buy their tickets for this year, I didn’t hesitate.

On Saturday, I’ll be at the race again. And my sister is going for the first time. She’ll be wearing The Hat. Mom’s been gone for more than a decade, but I know she would be proud of us.

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(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

A day at the races

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, connecting service (change of plane) is offered to Louisville, Ky., on American, Continental, Delta, Midwest Express, Northwest, Southwest, United and US Airways. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $152.

WHERE TO STAY:

The Brown Hotel, 335 W. Broadway; (502) 583-1234, www.brownhotel.com. The historic downtown hotel is elegant and one of the top places to stay for the Derby. Book six months in advance. Three-day Derby packages start at $3,600 for a double.

Hilton Garden Inn, Louisville Airport, 2735 Crittenden Drive; (877) 782-9444 or (502) 637-2424, www.hiltongardeninn.com. This multistory hotel, about half a mile from Churchill Downs, is an excellent place to stay to avoid the huge Derby traffic jam. Book four months in advance. Three-day race packages start at $1,700 for a double.

Country Inn & Suites, Louisville Airport, 2850 Crittenden Drive; (800) 456-4000 or (502) 753-5555, www.countryinns.com. Another chain hotel with a great location about half a mile from Churchill Downs. Rooms were available at the Travel section’s deadline Tuesday. Three-night package starts at $1,350.

WHERE TO EAT:

Lilly’s, 1147 Bardstown Road; (502) 451-0447, www.lillyslapeche.com. Popular Art Deco-style restaurant features local produce and an imaginative, eclectic menu. Entrees $18-$36.

Pat’s Steak House, 2437 Brownsboro Road; (502) 896-9234. Clubby ‘50s-style restaurant offers high-quality beef and is said to have some of the best steaks and fried chicken in town. Entrees $16-$32. Cash or check only.

Wagner’s Pharmacy, 3113 S. 4th St.; (502) 375-3800. This old-fashioned soda fountain is the place to mingle with Churchill Downs jockeys. It’s across the street from the track. Cheap breakfasts and good burgers and fries. Most menu items under $7.

TO LEARN MORE:

Kentucky Distillers Assn., 110 W. Main St., Springfield, KY 40069; (859) 336-9612, www.kybourbon.com. Has bourbon trail map and pamphlet.

Lexington, Ky., Convention and Visitors Bureau, 301 E. Vine St., Lexington, Ky.; (800) 845-3959, www.visitlex.com. Info on horse-farm tours.

Kentucky Department of Travel, 500 Mero St., Suite 22, Frankfort, KY 40601; (800) 225-8747, www.kentuckytourism.com.

-- Rosemary McClure

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Different ways to see the Derby

THE Kentucky Derby is among the top 10 tickets in the world of sports. Seats are nearly impossible to come by. But here are some ways to attend.

* Pay $40 at the gate for general admission and spend race day in the infield at Churchill Downs. Bring a lawn chair and be prepared to become a part of spring break, Kentucky Derby style. Fellow race-goers may be drunk and disorderly. By race time you will be surrounded by about 75,000 rowdy people, and some might vomit on you. And you’ll be crammed into such a tight space that you may not be able to see the race.

* Pay $40 for general admission for standing areas behind the clubhouse and grandstand. There isn’t anywhere to sit down, you won’t be able to see the race, and, again, you’ll be shoulder to shoulder with fellow race-goers. But they will be dressed better than the folks in the infield, you may be able to see the horses when they enter the paddock to be saddled, and a wide-screen video monitor will give you a better view of the race than if you watched it at home on TV.

* Pay $40 and get in line early (6:30 a.m.) at Churchill Downs’ Gate 10. You may be able to commandeer a patch of grass near the first turn.

* Pay $1,200 to $6,500 or more (per person, double occupancy) for a tour that includes two nights’ lodging, transfers to and from the race and reserved seats. Some agencies, such as On Point Sports travel, www.onpointevents.com, offer packages that cost as much as $25,950 for four and include a private jet from Los Angeles and limo service to Louisville, in addition to private tours of distilleries, horse-breeding farms and meetings with jockeys.

* Try to get tickets from Churchill Downs, www.churchilldowns.com. The track invites race fans to apply for tickets online a year in advance. I tried it to no avail. One man I talked to said he had applied 10 years in a row and failed to get tickets. But Debbie England, a West Covina woman, said she got them the first time she applied.

* Pay $300 to $8,000 or more each to buy tickets online from individuals or ticket services. Buyer beware: Scalping tickets is illegal in Kentucky and buyers can never be sure who they’re dealing with or if they’re getting forged tickets.

* Win tickets. Radio stations and other organizations have contests, with Derby tickets as prizes. Check online.

* Best of all? Go as a guest of a generous ticket-holder, corporation or other organization. Celebrities are especially welcome. Louisville thrives on the famous faces seen in town during Derby Week.

-- Rosemary McClure