A singular design vision for Gucci
Less than two years after Tom Ford left Gucci, the luxury brand once again has a single design vision. On Tuesday, men’s wear designer John Ray resigned, leaving Frida Giannini in charge of women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories. No reason was given.
The move underscores Gucci’s confidence in Giannini, despite the lukewarm reviews for her first women’s wear collection, which was presented in Milan in October.
It also signals an end to the multipronged approach the company initially took after Ford’s departure, putting different designers in charge of the three categories.
Ford transformed Gucci in the late 1990s from a fusty leather-goods house into a global fashion brand. When a trio of designers was announced to replace him in March 2004, industry watchers were skeptical they would be able to carry forth with a strong vision.
Alessandra Facchinetti, the first women’s wear designer, was not well received. Giannini’s retail success with new accessories such as the “Flora” series of bags and shoes, splashed with a wildflower print from a vintage 1966 Gucci scarf made for Grace Kelly, made her a natural replacement.
Since then, Giannini’s apparel designs have been criticized for being too girlish, but her clout within the company has continued to rise. In November, Hollywood welcomed her to town, when she staged an encore of her Spring 2006 runway show at Eva and Michael Chow’s house for the annual Children’s Action Network/Westside Children’s Center benefit.
