Greek fare, seriously
FUNNY thing, someone had just asked me if I knew of any contemporary Greek restaurants here, something on the order of Molyvos or Periyali in New York. I’d had to say, “No, we don’t have anything like that.”
It turns out I spoke too soon, because only a few days later Petros opened in Manhattan Beach, and it’s just what my friend was looking for, or almost.
Set a few blocks from the beach, just off Manhattan Beach Boulevard in the new Metlox Block complex, Petros (which is named for owner Petros Benekos) gets a prime spot, along one side of a courtyard with a patio in front of trees strung with lanterns. The attractive all-white restaurant looks appealing for a restaurant at the beach.
But when we walked in and the host barked, “Stand over there,” my little group considered mutiny while he disappeared to fetch a hostess, who went to fetch menus before leading us to a table. Something a little more welcoming would have been nice, something on the order of, “We just opened and we’re a bit overwhelmed, but we’re glad you’re here.”
The kitchen and staff were overwhelmed. Two waiters were trying valiantly to take care of the entire dining room. We had to flag one down to order and to get more bread, but the food was interesting and good.
The chef is Yanni Koufodontis, who worked at Spago and Maple Drive. The house salad, a Greek one, of course, is a delicious mix of cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, feta and fragrant oregano. A delicate avgolemono, the classic chicken soup thickened with egg yolk and brightened with lemon, passes muster. The saganaki (fried cheese with lemon and parsley) arrived tepid, though.
The various dips are delicious, especially the melitzanosalata: roasted eggplant flavored with crushed walnuts, lemon and garlic.
Main courses include lamb three ways: a feta-crusted rack of lamb, lamb shank with roasted red peppers and almonds, and roasted leg of lamb with giant beans. There’s also a spinach risotto with shrimp and feta and a homey dish of rice and meat-stuffed tomatoes. Greek snapper simply grilled and squeezed with lemon may be the most flavorful fish in Manhattan Beach.
Save room for the desserts, which include Greek-style rice pudding and bougatsa, a cinnamon-scented semolina custard enclosed between buttery layers of filo.
While I’m thrilled that someone has opened a serious Greek restaurant, I think Petros may have a few things to work out in terms of the pricing and the portions. The combo dip plate seems mingy for $14. And $38 for spaghetti with lobster and feta seems awfully steep for what is basically a pasta dish.
They’ve just added lunch, all the better to take advantage of the outdoor patio. Try it now, because come summer and warmer evenings it’s going to be hard to get a table.
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Petros
Where: 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach
When: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. daily; dinner, 5:30-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 5:30 p.m.-12 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Full bar. Parking lot under building.
Cost: Dinner appetizers, $5 to $14; mezes, $6 to $14; main courses, $18 to $38; desserts, $8. Lunch appetizers, $5 to $12; mezes, $6 to $14; main courses, $12 to $18; desserts, $8.
Info: (310) 545-4100, www.petrosrestaurant.com