PROVENCE IN THE VALLEY

La vie est belle en Californie.

Seven years ago, Gilena and Gary Simons honeymooned for a month in a charming cottage in the tiny village of St. Antonin du Var, 30 minutes north of St. Tropez. Surrounded by pine woods and vineyards set amid low rolling hills and the chirping of cigales, they fell in love again--this time with the languorous rhythms of Provence.

“Our days were very lazy,” recalled Gilena, 36. “We’d wake up, go to the farmers market, buy some olives, cheese, a bottle of wine, maybe a roast chicken, and then return home for lunch. We’d nap, then wake up and begin again, preparing dinner together, sitting outside under the stars. We had a lot of plans but we kept putting them off.”

That is, save for one--the biggest plan of them all.

When Gilena and Gary returned to Southern California, they made up their minds to construct a French mas, or farmhouse, just like those they had seen abroad. Far from Provence in miles, but not in spirit, their 10,000-square-foot home in Hidden Hills--Maison du Paix--feels deeply rooted in the land. Unlike many traditional homes built from scratch, it gives off not a whiff of faux Disney.

“We wanted to build something solid,” said Gary, 46, a commercial real estate developer, “as if it had been here a long time.”

With Bastille Day approaching, eight French natives living in the L.A. area--a director, a pilot, a model, an architect, an artist, an actor’s personal assistant and a pair of designers--joined Gilena and Gary at Maison du Paix for a dinner alfresco.

The evening started with a roasted tomato and olive flatbread with P’tit Basque, a flavorful sheep’s milk cheese, served on the side. “Think deconstructed pizza,” explained Craig Pincus, the private chef the Simonses often use for parties. Aged goat cheese souffles with baby arugula and dried strawberry salad made a nice appetizer before the main course arrived: roasted capon marinated with Provencal herbs, ratatouille- stuffed artichokes, fingerling potatoes topped with chives and the ultimate, musky French root--black truffles.

As befitting a group from France, the conversation between bites quickly turned to a favorite topic: the food in front of them, as well as what else they could be eating.

“For me the best thing about L.A. is the variety of food,” said “Catwoman” director Jan Kristof Komar, who goes by the name Pitof. “Mexican, Moroccan, Indian, Japanese--you can find everything here. I love all kinds of food. That’s my really French part talking now,” he added with a laugh. “While we’re eating, we talk about what we’re eating, and then what we would like to eat next.”

“It’s true,” said Parisian artist Elizabeth Colomba, who recently had her first one-woman show at See Line Gallery in Santa Monica. “Eating and talking, that’s what we French do.”

“We have really excellent food in France,” professional pilot Florent Renucci chimed in. Hailing from Roanne, home of the three-star restaurant Trois- gros, he should know. “But people are more set in their ways about food. When they opened a Chinese restaurant, my grandfather refused to go because they didn’t serve bread.”

“Yes, bread is the centerpiece of our food--essential to the French diet,” Pitof said. “We have so many kinds--pain de campagne, pain noir, pain aux amandes, pain aux herbs.”

“Don’t forget pain a la tapenade,” said Melanie Plassart, who designs linens for infants. “There are olives in every slice.”

“You see, we’re all getting excited about food,” said Pitof, looking around the table. “By the way, where is the bread?”

The group bantered amid a setting that is tres magnifique. An array of simple materials keeps the Simonses’ San Fernando Valley home feeling authentic. Designed in an H-shape configuration, it boasts front and rear courtyards, a hand-cut Santa Barbara stone exterior and terra-cotta roof tiles. Natural light floods the interior spaces, illuminating cool plaster walls the color of butter on a hot summer day. “The walnut plank floor in the main living quarters is much like an old farmhouse might have,” said West Hollywood interior designer Mark Cutler, who collaborated with architect John Reed and the Simonses on the design of the home.

Beyond getting the right look for the house, Cutler said, it was important to evoke the “feel of France--the crunch of gravel underfoot as you approach the house, the fragrance of rosemary and lavender in the air, allees of spruce and crape myrtle, ivy climbing the stone walls.”

Gary’s pride and joy is an orchard with 26 fruit trees that he personally tends--four types of apples, nectarines, white and yellow peaches, two kinds of tangerines, three kinds of oranges, grapefruit, limes, pears. “It’s wonderful to see the kids pick apples right off the trees when they want a snack,” he said of his and Gilena’s two children. Herbs of Provence, as well as the ubiquitous French lavender that Gary uses to make his killer lavender ice cream, are planted throughout the garden. Gary loves to press the herbs between his fingers, releasing the aroma.

Back at the dinner table, meanwhile, the guests were still talking food.

“That’s the difference between the Valley and the South of France--no bread or cheese because of too many carbs, too much cholesterol,” said Aurelie Levy, who came to visit friends in L.A. five years ago and ended up staying on as a personal assistant to actor John Cusack. “California has changed my life; I’m completely into yoga and healthy organic foods now. I don’t miss French food at all.”

Of course, Levy made that claim before Pincus arrived with the desserts: a fresh lemon tart and lavender ice cream.

“Ummmmm,” the group said, a communal humming sound coming from somewhere deep in their throats.

“Lavender ice cream? I never had that in France,” said Jean-Maurice Moulene, a Beaux Arts-trained architect. “Glace a la reglisse--licorice, yes. Lavender, never.”

“I’ve eaten lavender ice cream,” interjected Plassart. “I once made an entire dinner with lavender in every dish . . . lavender quiche, lavender omelet, lavender flan and lavender ice cream. It was quite delicious.”

“That sounds like a bit too much lavender for me,” said clothing designer Marouan Jamai.

Gary then spoke up from the far end of the table. “Do the French see any similarities between South France and the Valley?” he asked.

“The heat of the Valley is similar to Provence,” said Renucci, “and we have a lot of the same Mediterranean vegetation--olive and citrus trees, bougainvillea, sunflowers. But here you have air-conditioning. When it gets really hot in France we can only close the blinds and keep it dark.”

“What I love about Los Angeles is that you have all the good things of a big city--restaurants, theater, museums, galleries--but in five minutes you’re in the country,” said Florence Deprez-Wright, a model and independent film producer.

“Yes, you can work all day and then go for a hike in the hills, said Moulene. They are very similar to the garigue in Provence--very hot and dry.”

“For me, California is all about the light,” Pitof said. “God made California sunsets just for moviemakers.”

“La vie est belle en Californie,” said Renucci as he finished up his last spoonful of lavender ice cream. “It’s very similar to Provence here.”

The Simonses would certainly agree, with one important caveat: “The French attitude is to enjoy simple pleasures,” Gary said. “They do a better job of living in the moment.”

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(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

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Provencal Menu

Roasted Tomato and Olive Flatbread

Aged Goat Cheese Souffle With Arugula Salad

Citrus and Thyme-Scented Olives

Spit-Roasted Capon With Fresh Garden Herbs

Ratatouille-Stuffed Artichokes

Fingerling Potatoes with Chives

Garden Lemon Tart

Lavender Ice Cream

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Roasted Tomato & Olive Flatbread With P’tit Basque

Makes 2 large flatbreads

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

4 basil leaves

2 garlic cloves

15 Roma tomatoes

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives, cut in half

2 prepared pizza crusts

3/4 pound P’tit Basque cheese, wax removed

Chop the herbs and garlic and set aside in a large bowl. Cut the tomatoes in half and toss with the herbs, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a baking rack over a sheet pan. Bake at 250 degrees until they are three-fourths dried and slightly browned but still retain their shape, about 1 hours. When the tomatoes are done, cool and chop. Place the prepared pizza dough on a nonstick baking sheet or pizza stone. Top the 2 prepared crusts evenly with the tomatoes. Add the olives and bake in a 500-degree oven. Cook until the bottom is browned, about 17 to 20 minutes. Cool and cut into slices. Serve with a wedge of P’tit Basque.

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Spit-Roasted Capon Marinated

in Honey, Dark Beer, Garlic and Fresh Garden Herbs

Serves 8

1 8- to 10-pound capon

(a large roasting chicken or small

turkey can be substituted)

6 cups dark beer

1/2 cup sage honey

8 cloves garlic, smashed

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

4 large shallots, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup each thyme, rosemary, sage, chives and oregano, picked, not cut

1 small orange, quartered

1 small lemon, quartered

Rinse the capon and remove any innards. Place in a heavy-duty Ziploc bag. In a large bowl, mix together all the ingredients except the orange and lemon. Add to the bag (making sure to remove the air) and marinate for at least 2 hours. Remove the capon and strain the marinade, reserving the solids. Stuff the bird with the reserved solids, the orange and the lemon. Tie the legs and wings together with kitchen twine. Attach to a barbecue spit and roast on high heat (400 degrees) for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium (350 degrees) and roast until done, about 2 hours, 30 minutes (about 15 minutes per pound), or until a thermometer registers 175 degrees. Let rest 15 minutes. Remove the twine and lemon and orange wedges. If the capon starts to get too brown, reduce the heat to low (300 degrees) and wrap the wing tips with foil.

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Lavender Ice Cream

1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise and seeds scraped

3 cups half-and-half

1 cup heavy cream

8 egg yolks

1 1/3 cups lavender sugar, packed (see note)

1 tablespoon orange honey

1/4 cup fresh lavender buds, finely chopped

Place the vanilla bean, seeds, half-and-half and heavy cream in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring. Remove from the heat. In a bowl, whisk the yolks to ribbon stage and add the sugar and honey, whisking until smooth. Whisk a small amount of the cream mixture into the yolks, then add the remaining cream to the egg mixture. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Return to low heat and cook, stirring constantly until it coats the back of a spoon. Cool completely in an ice-water bath. Remove the vanilla bean. For a 1-quart ice cream maker, freeze the mixture 2 cups at a time, adding 2 tablespoons of lavender buds to each batch at the end of freezing. Scoop into a container and place in the freezer until hard.

Note: To make lavender sugar, add about 1/4 cup of lavender buds to 2 cups of sugar. Mix and let stand in an airtight container for about 2 weeks, shaking every third day. Reserve the remaining sugar for another use.

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Aged Goat Cheese Souffle

Serves 6

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1/3 cup panko crumbs

1/4 cup finely grated dry-aged goat cheese, divided

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups milk

1 teaspoon salt, plus a pinch

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Freshly ground black pepper

5 eggs, separated

2 cups fresh goat cheese

2 egg whites

Place a rack on the bottom third of the oven. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Using 2 tablespoons of butter, liberally coat a 10-cup souffle dish. Mix the panko crumbs with half of the dry-aged goat cheese and sprinkle inside the dish, making sure that the surface is well coated. Put the dish on a baking sheet. (You can prepare six individual ramekins the same way.)

Melt the remaining butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes, making sure the roux does not brown. Add the milk in a slow stream, whisking vigorously, until the sauce is thick and smooth, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with 1 teaspoon salt, the thyme and cayenne pepper, and black pepper to taste. While continuing to whisk, add the egg yolks one at a time, making sure each yolk is well incorporated before adding the next. Add the remaining dry-aged goat cheese and the fresh goat cheese and stir until the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth. Set aside. (This souffle base can be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator until needed.)

Put the 7 egg whites and a pinch of salt in the bowl of a mixer and beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry. Using a rubber spatula, stir 1/4 of the egg white mixture into the souffle base. Very gently fold in the remaining egg whites, being careful not to overmix. Gently spoon the mixture into the souffle dish and bake for 45 minutes until puffed, golden and gently set in the center. A wood skewer inserted in the middle should come out clean.

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Garden Lemon Tart

Serves 8

GARNISH

2 thin-skinned lemons, cut into

16 1/8-inch-thick slices

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

Pinch of salt

Lavender flowers

Heat the oven to 200 degrees. Combine the sugar, water and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the lemon slices and cook in the boiling water for 5 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and place on a greased, parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 1§ hours, or until pale gold. Immediately remove the lemon slices from the parchment and cool on a rack.

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If frozen, defrost the puff pastry. Roll out one sheet on a lightly floured board to a 10-by-12-inch rectangle. Set aside on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roll out the second pastry sheet to the same size. Measure 1 inch around the inside of the pastry and cut out a border from the second sheet, being careful not to break it. Brush the full sheet of puff pastry with the beaten egg, to cover. Place the cut-out border on top of the first sheet and gently press down to seal. Brush the top of the border with the egg wash. Use a fork to poke holes all over the bottom of the tart. Freeze for about 30 minutes. (Save the remaining puff pastry for another use.) Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Bake the tart for 18 to 20 minutes until puffed and golden. Let cool. In the meantime, make the filling. Place the egg yolks, eggs, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and heavy cream in a metal bowl. Whisk to combine. Place over a saucepan of simmering water and cook, stirring until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Reduce the oven to 325 degrees. Pour the filling into the tart and bake until it is almost set, about 10 minutes. Let the tart cool, then place the lemon slices on top and garnish with lavender flowers.

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Braised Artichokes

Serves 4

4 artichokes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 shallots, sliced

6 garlic cloves, bruised

4 bay leaves

1 tablespoon whole peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 whole cloves

1/4 bunch thyme, whole on stem

1/4 bunch basil

2 lemons, quartered and juiced

3 tablespoons salt

Pepper to taste

1 cup Sauvignon Blanc

3 cups chicken stock

Wash the artichokes and remove the stems, small outer leaves and sharp tips. Trim the tops. In a Dutch oven or other large pan, add the olive oil and saute the shallots and garlic. Add the artichokes and cook until the garlic and shallots start to turn brown. Add the remaining ingredients, except the wine and chicken stock, and stir. Add the wine and cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Then add the stock, cover and cook over medium-low heat for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the leaves are tender. Let cool. Remove the choke with a spoon, making sure to scrape out all the fine hairs. Slice each artichoke bottom so that it stands straight. Set aside.

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Ratatouille Vegetables

Serves 4

Olive oil as needed

2 green zucchini, diced

2 yellow zucchini, diced

2 Japanese eggplants, diced

2 yellow bell peppers, diced

2 red bell peppers, diced

1 brown onion, diced

2 heirloom tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

4 bay leaves

1/4 cup tomato paste

1/4 cup fresh thyme leaves, washed and picked

(do not chop)

2 garlic cloves, minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Over high heat, saute each vegetable separately, until softened, reserving the onion and tomato for last. Add some thyme, garlic, salt and pepper to each batch, then set aside. Saute the onion until softened. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves and tomato paste. Continue cooking until the paste becomes very thick and starts to smell burnt. Remove from heat and discard the bay leaves. Mix together the vegetables and place in a large pan, making sure they are no more than 3 inches deep. Bake at 450 degrees until the top starts to brown, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly. Stuff each braised artichoke with about 1/4 cup ratatouille. Place in a baking dish and bake for 20 to 25 minutes at 350 degrees.

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Resource Guide:

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Craig Pincus, chef@att.net.

Mark Cutler, Mark Cutler Design,

West Hollywood, (310) 360-6212. John Reed, Reed Architectural Group, Santa Monica, (310) 393-9128.

Pages 26-27:

Thomas O’Brien table runner, $13.49, at Target stores, www.target.com. Small peach and green glasses, $4 each, mercury glass candleholders, $36 each, and white flower-shaped “Poppy” condiment bowls, $8 each, all at Anthropologie stores, www.anthropologie.com. Small wood “Acacia” plate, $3.95, at Crate & Barrel stores, www.crateandbarrel.com. Blue printed flower leaf napkins, $8.95 each, etched wine and water glasses, $12.95 and $13.95 each, large milk bottle, $26.95, all at Maison Midi, Los Angeles, (323) 935-3157. Hartford blue linen shirt, $180, at Barneys New York, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-4400. Orange “Ric Roc” tunic, $106, and plum “Danielle” dress, $250, at Tory Burch, Los Angeles, (310) 248-2612.

Pages 30-31:

Wood pizza peel, $10.40 and $15.50, at Surfas, Culver City, (310) 559-4770, www.surfasonline.com. Lee Angel wire-wrapped bangle, $445, at Jennifer Kaufman, Beverly Center, Los Angeles, (310) 854-1058.

Pages 32-33:

Thomas O’Brien yellow-stripe tablecloth, $39.99, at Target stores. Bellini hand-painted salad bowl, $68.95, Laguiole carving set, $24.95, and printed flower leaf napkin, $8.95, all at Maison Midi.

Pages 34-35:

Glass footed dessert dishes, $2.50 each, at Crate & Barrel. Small clear glasses, $8 each, at Anthropologie.

Pages 36-37:

“Italian Pinched” plate in brick, $12.95, and “Ruffle” dish in turquoise and cream, $6.95, at Sur La Table stores, www.surlatable.com.

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Food Styled by Karen Gillingham; Prop Stylist: Jen Gotch for Zenobia; Wardrobe Stylist: Xavier Cabrera; Hair: John Francis for soloartists.com/redken; Makeup: Melvone Farrell for Photogenics/MAC Cosmetics