Loafing around

By Leslee Komaiko

July 20, 2006 12 AM PT

Meatloaf lends itself to infinite variations. Whether you like yours basic or anything but, there’s a loaf with your name on it.

Brent’s Deli

Don’t like your meatloaf tricked out with too many extras? The version served at this San Fernando Valley delicatessen (about to open a second location in Westlake Village) has no highfalutin aspirations. It’s just beef, bread crumbs, egg, a few spices and a ketchup glaze. Get it straight up or between bread.

* Beef meatloaf sandwich, $12.25. 19565 Parthenia St., Northridge, (818) 886-5679.

Memphis at the Santora

Meatloaf gets the luxe treatment at this Southern-style room. Chef Diego Velasco stacks two pieces of beef meatloaf (made with what he calls the holy trinity of Cajun cooking -- onion, celery and bell pepper -- as well as several types of pepper) with mashed potatoes and sauteed haricot vert. This gets topped with homemade barbecue sauce and melted sharp cheddar.

* Meatloaf stack, $14.50. 201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, (714) 564-1064.

The Newsroom

The meatloaf at this healthy-

leaning spot with the popular patio isn’t traditional. The name, Asian Persuasion, is the giveaway. Ground turkey is accented with green onion, cilantro, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and chili paste. A ramekin of spicy ginger ketchup is served alongside. The sandwich version comes on toasted ciabatta.

* Plate, $14.95; sandwich, $10.95. 120 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., (310) 652-4444.

Ammo

Don’t come to this casual new spot Tuesday through Sunday nights jonesing for meatloaf. The turkey meatloaf is available Monday nights only as a standing special. (You can also get it weekdays at lunchtime.) It’s made with sauteed vegetables, and the cooking method keeps it super moist. Accompaniments? Tomato sauce, mashed potatoes and Swiss chard.

* Meatloaf special, $18. 1155 N. Highland Ave., L.A., (323) 871-2666.

Engine Company No. 28

What’s more comforting than warm meatloaf out of the oven? A cold meatloaf sandwich the next day. At this lively grill, a former fire station, you can get your beef and pork meatloaf warm with veal gravy or have a thick, cold slice of the loaf between toasted white bread. Sliced tomato and Russian dressing make it just right.

* Meatloaf sandwich, $10.95. 644 S. Figueroa St., downtown L.A., (213) 624-6996.

-- Leslee Komaiko