Providing chills
Los Balcones del Peru
The most popular ceviche at this year-old Peruvian charmer is the mixto, made with swatches of sole along with octopus, squid and shrimp. It comes with a chunk of corn from Cuzco and sweet potato. You can also add hot, crunchy fried calamari to any of the cool ceviches for contrast.
* Ceviche mixto, $11. 1360 N. Vine St., Hollywood, (323) 871-9600.
Sevilla
Chef Michael Reidt uses four kinds of juice, including orange and passion fruit, in the marinade for the tuna ceviche he is serving at this year-old nuevo Latino dining room. He sets the ceviche atop a salad of nutty, al dente farro with creamy avocado and adds a final garnish of crisp, spicy popcorn, a foil to the cool, silky tuna.
* Ceviche, $12. 428 Chapala St., Santa Barbara, (805) 564-8446.
La Playita
In addition to tacos, burritos and horchata, this modest Mexican stand does two kinds of ceviche: shrimp and fish. The preparation is the same for both. They are marinated in lemon juice, onion, tomato and cilantro. If you order yours for “here,” which means standing at the counter, on the sidewalk or dining in your car, the ceviche is served in a crisp tortilla shell.
* Shrimp ceviche, $1.50; fish ceviche, $1.25. 3306 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 452-0090.
Cafe Hidalgo
Just about everyone wants to sit on the patio at this modern Southwestern spot, all the better to enjoy the pretty courtyard, margaritas and red snapper ceviche. Order it straight or try the ceviche salbutes: three crisp tortillas, each topped with that very same ceviche.
* Ceviche, $7.95. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton, (714) 447-3202.
Frida
The kitchen pays lots of attention to presentation at this Mexican eatery. The ceviche is no exception. All three versions arrive in martini glasses, including the one they call “Oasis”: cubes of brilliant red tuna paired with avocado. You can also get an Acapulco-style shrimp ceviche, more like a fish cocktail in a tomato broth.
* Ceviche, $16. 236 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 278-7666.
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-- Leslee Komaiko