2003 Ampelos Cellars Evans Ranch Syrah

A remarkably graceful Syrah from the fairly new Ampelos Cellars estate in the Santa Rita Hills appellation. The grapes come from Evans Ranch a couple of miles from the winery, and wow, this must have been some gorgeous fruit. The 2003 Syrah is dark and concentrated with plenty of sweet spices and cherries in the perfume balanced by a cool, earthy character and a bright zing of acidity.

It’s great with barbecue -- slabs of ribs rubbed with a dry marinade and then grilled over charcoal, say. But also try it with grilled sausages, a mixed grill or leg of lamb roasted with thyme and rosemary.

Grab a bottle before it disappears from the shelves; availability is limited.

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Quick swirl

Region: Santa Rita Hills

Price: About $26

Style: Rich and concentrated

Food it goes with: Grilled ribs, chops, sausages, roast leg of lamb.

Where you find it: The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, (310) 278-2855 and (800) 547-1515; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Twenty Twenty Wine Co. in Los Angeles, (310) 447-2020; and Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.

-- S. Irene Virbila