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A little dab will do

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At the seafood restaurant La Madonnina del Pescatore in Italy’s Le Marche region, chef Moreno Cedroni is known for his way with fish. But in his laboratory he also makes sublime fruit preserves, packaged in beautifully whimsical, stackable jars. A dollop of strawberry lemon thyme preserve on a slice of Stilton is a perfect pairing -- sweet and herbal to play against the pungent blue. Or try the figs and tangerines marmalade with a chevre. Raspberry and ginger sauce, one of his latest concoctions, is great with duck. Savor a little at a time, then keep the jars.

Moreno Cedroni preserves, $12 to $14. Joan’s on Third, 8350 W. 3rd St., West Hollywood, (323) 655-2285.

-- Betty Hallock

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