Secret L.A.: Let us count the out-of-the-ways

How do you qualify as an insider in a town where half the people arrived yesterday, and the other half seem to have been here since the tar pits first bubbled?

As the song goes, “all you need is love” -- a real affection for Los Angeles and the things that make it one molten stew of opportunity. Silly or cerebral, hedonistic or abstemious, capitalistic or altruistic, highbrow or lowbrow: L.A. has a place for you -- if you know where to look. For that we turned to our panel of experts -- the people who open bookstores and restaurants here, who curate the art and take us on tours, who entertain us and themselves. Some of their offerings are truly buried, others simply underappreciated. Whatever they are, each is a facet of the kaleidoscopic L.A. experience.

We started with our cover model, actor Robert Downey Jr. What better person to reveal the secret allures of this city? No, no, not for those reasons, but because you couldn’t find a more dedicated fan of L.A. Downey, who was raised in New York City, has adopted the City of Angels as his own. “I get in trouble for saying this, but I think it’s the best city in America,” says Downey, who moved to L.A. in 1984. “One of the great pleasures of living here for a long time is seeing it morph -- like watching the Chateau Marmont go from a place where you needed a Z-Pak to eat a tuna sandwich to something classy. L.A.’s done going through that avoid-at-all-costs phase.”

If you’re Downey, for a good time you hit Santa Monica’s Main Street. Among his favorite haunts: Shoops [2400 Main St., (310) 452-1019], a German deli he says is not like anywhere else. “You know when friends come back from Europe and bring you all those weird German wafer bars? They’ve got those up the wazoo -- and strange meats and great sandwiches. . . . Across the street is Tao Healing Arts Center [2309 Main St., (310) 396-4877], where I regularly require shiatsu. Unlike other body works places where you think you’ve broken a window when they tell you the price, Tao’s moderately priced and the staff is really well trained. If you can, get Dr. Kaneko. He’s a serious and compassionate healing dude. . . . And since we’re on Main Street, I’ll stop by B.NY [2449 Main St., (310) 396-1616], which reminds me of those small, East Coast clothing boutiques with half a dozen shoes and one shirt. They carry offbeat, tasteful designers like Issey Miyake. Great for if you have something formal and don’t want to go through the Barney’s grinder.”

And moving right along. . . .

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EAT

Bret McKenzie

One-half of musical-comedy duo Flight of the Conchords

There’s a cafe in Griffith Park called Trails. It looks like a ranger station. They sell organic, healthy food. You sit at picnic tables -- it feels like you’re camping. I want to do a Conchords concert there. Griffith Park, Los Angeles (use the entrance with the bear statue)

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Paul Schimmel

MOCA chief curator

There is no better place in the States to find extraordinary Asian food than the neighborhood around Atlantic and Valley boulevards in the San Gabriel Valley. You would have to go to Hong Kong or Singapore to find a more diverse group of restaurants. It’s an intensely competitive scene -- makes the art world look nice. S. Atlantic and W. Valley boulevards, Alhambra

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Babajan

Master weaver; instructor at Pets With Fez Studio

Shamshiri Restaurant, a family-run Persian place in Glendale, is sadly overlooked. It’s not fancy -- you could come in a suit or jeans and a T-shirt. I get their heavenly fesenjan; it’s made of pomegranate paste, walnuts and chicken, but they’ll make it vegetarian if you want. 122 W. Stocker St., Glendale. (818) 246-9541

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David Lentz

Chef-proprieter, the Hungry Cat

Azami Sushi Cafe is a small storefront run by two super-friendly female sushi chefs who cook for me and my wife. The kitchen is mainly staffed by women who work six days a week with smiles on their faces. It’s great to see people who love what they do. 7160 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood. (323) 939-3816

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Peter Mays

Executive director, Los Angeles Art Assn.

Le Petit Bistro is a teeny place and you basically have to sit on each other, but it has the best French food in L.A., particularly the cassoulet and bouillabaisse. They also have extraordinary steaks, on par with the best steakhouses in town. The service is terrific too. 631 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (310) 289-9797

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Brett Gurewitz

Founder, Epitaph Records; guitarist, Bad Religion

Mike’s Hockey Burger has been around as long as Bad Religion. Ask for either a hockey burger, which is a burger with a hot dog on it, or an Armenian hye pie. 1717 S. Soto St., Los Angeles. (323) 264-0444

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Rickey Kim

Creative director, Evil Monito agency

Mama’s Hot Tamales Cafe is an artist co-op and a nonprofit where they teach underprivileged people how to be restaurateurs. They serve really good tamales, of course; the one from Oaxaca comes with an excellent mole sauce. It’s across the street from MacArthur Park, which is heroin-infested but also very L.A. You walk out and these guys offer you “free I.D.” 2122 W. 7th St., Los Angeles. (213) 487-7474

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Burt Bacharach

Oscar- and Grammy-winning composer

Locanda Portofino in Santa Monica. Great food, great ambience and great staff. 1110 Montana Ave., Santa Monica. (310) 394-2070

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Sam Nazarian

L.A. night life impresario; founder SBE

Cafe Stella in Silver Lake is one of my favorite hidden spots. The food is wonderful and the patio has the best ambience. A good place to escape the Hollywood scene. 3932 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 666-0285

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John Densmore

Writer-drummer, Tribaljazz; former member of the Doors

Picolo, off the Venice boardwalk, is a family-run Italian place. Not cheap, so bring your wallet. It’s the exact location of the former Gaslight Cafe, where Allen Ginsburg read poetry accompanied by bongo drums in the ‘50s. I like the place because Jim [Morrison] and I used to hang out there when it was a coffeehouse and soak up the former beatnik vibes before our band got a gig on the Strip . . . and took off. 5 Dudley Ave., Venice

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Richard Montoya

Playwright, member of Culture Clash

Taix French Restaurant and Lounge in Echo Park is becoming an important live music venue for indie bands, but on Wednesdays the lounge reverts to its old school self. The charming gents behind the bar -- Luis from Spain or Bernard from France -- have been there for 50 years. Amid the ever-growing clamor of Echo Park’s hipster scene, this is an opportunity to partake of the most overlooked art: conversation. 1911 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park. (213) 484-1265

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Richard Donner

Filmmaker, “Superman,” “Lethal Weapon”

Il Piccolino Trattoria in Beverly Hills is a hidden gem. I hope it stays that way. Maybe I should have given the wrong address! 350 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 659-2220

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Jason Lee

Actor, “My Name Is Earl” (NBC)

La Cabanita is the best Mexican food in L.A. It’s Mexico City, home-cooked-style food, with incredible sauces and soups, and soft, chewy tortillas. Amazing. 3447 N. Verdugo Road, Glendale

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Jim Brooks

Oscar-winning filmmaker, Emmy-winning executive producer, “The Simpsons”

Malibu Seafood is just a short ways north of Pepperdine. It’s cafeteria-style with picnic tables in the open air -- you can sort of see the ocean. The food is fresh and families can eat with bikers who won’t scare you. Yup, that’s my choice. 25653 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu. (310) 456-3430

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Gary Panter

Artist

La Maison du Pain has the best cinnamon rolls in the city. Fresh. Full. You pull them apart and they wrap around your tongue. Because they’re on Pico Boulevard, they always seem empty -- if they were in newly ultra cool Eagle Rock there would be long-ass lines. I know pastry because my mother worked behind the pastry counter at Canter’s Deli on Fairfax for 50 years. But every rocker, mocker and alter cocker has been there. 5373 W. Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles.

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DRINK

Steve Jones

Sex Pistols guitarist; Indie 103.1 DJ

The Rainbow Bar & Grill is underappreciated because L.A.’s trendoids aren’t aware of it, or they don’t think it’s cool enough. And that’s what I like about it. You get Hollywood’s sorry dregs -- which I much prefer to the BlackBerry brigade. 9015 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. (310) 278-4232

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Zachary Levi

Actor, “Chuck” (NBC)

Firefly is my favorite bar of all time, no joke. I can’t get enough of those kids over there. For breakfast or lunch, it’s Vivian’s Millennium Cafe. Great food, decent prices and the most beautiful waitresses this side of the Mississippi. Firefly, 11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; Vivian’s, 10968 Ventura Blvd., Studio City

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Shepard Fairey

“Obey Giant” artist, DJ

I like downtown L.A. for the amazing architecture and idiosyncratic establishments. [It’s] the perfect escape from the tourists and trendy clubs and restaurants of Hollywood. Cedd Moses owns three awesome bars: the Broadway Bar, the Golden Gopher and Seven Grand. They’re all stylish and uniquely downtown. Broadway Bar, 830 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, (213) 614-9909; Gopher, 417 W. 8th St., (213) 614-8001; Seven, 515 W. 7th St., (213) 614-0737

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SEE

Crimebo the Clown

Esotouric tour guide

I love the Phoenix Overlook in Echo Park, which offers an amazing view of the houses on the hill, the freeway. Many an evening I’ve regaled a spontaneous date with tales of the Hillside Strangler and crazed grannies with poison tea. At the dead end of Landa Street, east of Castle Street, Echo Park

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Jenny Price

Nature writer; Los Angeles

Urban Ranger

Wouldn’t you know that of the 20 miles of Malibu beaches that are lined with private houses, the beach with the best public access is the one that’s the hardest to find? Lechuza Beach also happens to boast the longest public stretch of dry sand. If all Malibu beaches are gorgeous, some, like the cliff-nuzzling Lechuza, are a bit more gorgeous. West end of Broad Beach Road, between East Sea Level Road and West Sea Level Road, Malibu

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James Rojas

Urban planner; co-founder,

Latino Urban Forum

Evergreen Cemetery is a microcosm of L.A. diversity, history and style. From its 19th century park design to the rows of black Japanese tombstones, it reflects how diverse groups reinterpret urban space. It’s a reminder where we came from and where we will all end up. 204 N. Evergreen Ave., Los Angeles. (323) 268-6714

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Karol Wight

Curator of antiquities,

the J. Paul Getty Museum

I’ve always admired the Southern California ceramic tile companies, particularly Malibu Potteries. One of my favorite weekend jaunts is Adamson House, which is lavishly decorated with tile from Malibu Potteries -- it’s a real showcase for their work. 23200 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu. (310) 456-8432; www.adamsonhouse.org

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Caroline Styne

Co-owner, wine director,

A.O.C. and Lucques

At the farthest end of Westward Beach in Malibu, around the back side of a rock formation, lies Point Dume, a gorgeous cove and stretch of white sand beach that’s accessible only when the tide is low. It is truly a “secret spot” that feels like a private beach where one can see dolphins and sea lions swim by. Malibu.

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SHOP

Nancy Silverton

Owner, Pizzeria Mozza, Osteria Mozza

The Oak Crest Market looks like your typical small family store from the outside. But inside thousands of bottles of wine are arranged in a haphazard fashion, almost as if a dump truck full of wine emptied its contents there. But inside is an excellent selection. Looking for a 1970 Chateau Cheval Blanc or a 1989 Chateau Petrus? This is the spot. 3315 Cahuenga Blvd. W., Los Angeles. (323) 851-5294

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Doris Raymond

Owner, the Way We Wore boutique

I like to shop the museum stores, particularly the Craft and Folk Art Museum, where it’s easy to find unusual ethnic pieces at affordable prices. I like the treasures they have for children, like the adorable hand-felted, tiger-shaped kids slippers I recently bought for less than $30. 5814 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. (323) 937-4230; www.cafam.org

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Doug “Plasticgod” Murphy

Artist, toy maker

Despite the name, Backside Records in Burbank carries some of the best independent streetwear designers as well as some of the best vinyl toys in that part of town. They’re phasing the music out a bit, but once in a while they put on mini concerts for a band that might be promoting their album. 139 N. San Fernando Road, Burbank. (818) 559-7573; backsideair.com

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Kerry Slattery

Owner, Skylight Books

For 20 years Eso Won Books in Leimert Park has been a leading light in African American literature, fiercely committed to serving the L.A. community as well as providing a favorite signing stop for black literary stars and political figures visiting L.A. We sometimes take for granted that gems like this will be around, but now is the time to treat yourself to a rich cultural experience -- and to help ensure that it stays alive. 4331 Degnan Blvd., Los Angeles. www.esowon.booksense.com

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Curtis Hanson

Oscar-winning filmmaker

From my days playing beach volleyball in Venice, I still enjoy dropping into Small World Books. Then a burger, a draft and popcorn at Hinano, just up from the pier, all of this preceded and followed by a walk by the water -- at sunset, if possible. Small World, 1407 Ocean Front Walk, Venice; Hinano Cafe, 15 Washington Blvd.

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PLAY

James Spader

Actor, “Boston Legal” (ABC)

I go to the Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden at UCLA with my boys or if I have friends or relatives visiting. My sons love to come down the hills with their scooters or skateboards, and lo and behold, be faced with these beautiful female forms. It’s a very low-maintenance play date. UCLA campus, Westwood. www.hammer.ucla.edu

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Alyson Hannigan

Actor, “How I Met Your Mother” (CBS)

Saturday “Date Night” Class at Chefmakers Cooking Academy offers multiple chefs so you can make different dishes. And you get to eat what you make. Also, salsa classes at John Cassese the Dance Doctor --they’re a blast. Chefmakers, Pacific Palisades and Manhattan Beach. www.chefmakersonline.com; John Cassese 1440 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 459-2264

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Leonard Maltin

Film critic, historian

The best-kept secret in town? The Hollywood Heritage Museum in the Lasky-DeMille Barn, which sits in a parking lot opposite the Hollywood Bowl. Originally located at the corner of Selma and Vine, the barn was used to film DeMille’s “The Squaw Man.” . . . Now, it’s a Hollywood museum, with DeMille’s original office and film showings once a month. 2100 N. Highland Ave, Los Angeles. www.hollywoodheritage.org

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Adam Parfrey

Publisher, Feral House Books

The Philisophical Research Society is a glorious repository of Masonic, Kabbalistic, alchemical and Hermetic teachings. Its stylish old buildings hold a great library, store and auditorium that has lecture events by leading professors and thinkers. Manly Hall, who wrote “The Secret Teachings of the Ages,” lectured regularly there until his death in 1990. The Getty Museum has a special collection of rare alchemical works collected by Hall; that’s worth a visit too. 3910 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles. (323) 663-2167; www.prs.org

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Marcia Gay Harden

Actress, “Canvas”

I love this little Korean place, Natura Spa. There’s a mineral bath, a cold plunge -- the coldest -- and the hottest steam room and dry sauna I’ve ever been in. It’s also affordable. There’s no beautiful luxurious carpet; it’s not like that. But it’s everything you need. 3240 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 381-2288; www.natura-spa.com

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Shana Nys Dambrot

Art critic, managing editor, Flavorpill.net

I’ve gone to Hal’s Bar and Grill for years. Even so I wasn’t prepared for the lively mix of syncopation purists and bohemian locals that make a point of being there Sunday and Monday for the free jazz nights. They’re epic, especially the First Mondays with living legend of Latin percussion Bobby Matos. 1349 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice. (310) 396-3105

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Michael Ian Black

Comedian

The Commerce Casino is a great place to spend quality time with the dregs of humanity. I can sit at a poker table for 36 hours without moving. What people don’t know is that the fanciest restaurants in Hollywood can’t hold a candle to their cuisine, which is excellent and cheap. 6131 E. Telegraph Road, Commerce. www.commercecasino.com

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Lisa Kline

Owner, Lisa Kline boutiques

I love Tola Life Spa in Malibu. When I was pregnant, I got their hydrotherm massage, which has you on your back rather than your side. I felt completely relaxed. 23755 Malibu Colony Road, No. 700. www.tolaspa.com

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Rita D’Albert

Lucha Va Voom producer, performer

Forget Hyde and all that Lohan-geles . . . and check out a Lucha Libre show in South-Central. You’ll see everyone from children to grandmas all screaming obscenities at the wrestlers and going bananas. It’s dirty, it’s loud, and it’s truly infectious. Go to www.cmll.com for scheduled events.

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Busdriver

Rapper

Every Wednesday night at Low-End Theory at the Airliner in Lincoln Heights something frightfully unique happens in L.A. Young people of varying backgrounds come watch celebrity and up-and-coming producers play their music. National acts play rare intimate shows as well, and the resident DJs -- D-Styles, DJ Nobody, Daddy Kev, Gaslamp Killer -- create an ambience that simply can’t be found elsewhere. 2419 N. Broadway, Lincoln Heights. (323) 221-0771

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Mitchell Frank

Owner, Spaceland

Descanso Gardens is like a dream come true for anyone with boys, and I’ve got three. Inside, there’s a miniature choo-choo train that runs every 15 minutes. The cafe is rather nice and totally uncrowded, unlike other kids museums. It’s a sick combo of lush gardens and floral fragrances -- an incredible way to spend a fall afternoon in L.A. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Canada Flintridge. (818) 949-4200; www.descansogardens.org