Charming spot on the right side of the tracks
Downtown L.A. has Traxx restaurant in glorious Union Station. Not to be outdone, Pasadena just got its own retro railroad dining venue called La Grande Orange Cafe in what was once the old Santa Fe Railroad station at the Del Mar Gold Line stop.
Rustic timbers crisscross the high ceilings of the meticulously restored rail depot. Your server might point out the original iron and glass lanterns or the Mayan-themed tiles embedded in the walls. Or he might mention that there’s a guy on duty in the walk-in meat locker who’s responsible for grinding beef to order for the burgers. And another cook makes tortillas to order for the taco plates.
The new cafe, from Phoenix-based LGO Hospitality, opens just when its moderate prices and generous portions -- not to mention its kid-friendly menu -- will be most appreciated.
There’s an adjoining bar with a flat-screen TV tuned to sports (of course) and tall tables where couples are noshing on the chunky guacamole and charred tomato salsa with chips while guys just back from the gym are digging into a messy platter of chicken nachito made with roasted organic chicken and cheese melted over tortillas garnished with guacamole and salsa.
Shrimp ceviche is fresh and delicious, if short on firepower. There’s a chopped salad, an orange fennel salad with Marcona almonds; and for fans of Brussels sprouts, there’s one made with that veggie, Manchego cheese and dried cranberries. French dip sandwich is dip your own: it comes with a bowl of the meat juices.
But back to the burgers: The cheeseburger is hefty and satisfying, though the fries could use some crisping. You can also order your burger Santa Fe-style, with wood-roasted poblano chile and chipotle aioli.
But if beef is a no-no in your lifestyle, La Grande Orange has you covered -- go with the ahi tuna burger or, gulp, the vegetarian nut burger.
Hungrier souls may jump at the roasted jidori chicken, prime rib or pan-fried chicken served -- not with a waffle -- but with a cinnamon roll.
It’s all decent and hearty, but there’s nothing here to get the foodies running like lemmings. The staff is trying so hard with a menu that has something for everyone that you can’t help but like this genial newcomer.
When we get up to leave one night, a manager rushes over with a wrapped present for everyone -- a housemade English muffin. It turns out they’re developing the recipe for breakfast (which, like lunch, hasn’t started yet -- maybe in a month) and want everyone to try it and give feedback. Somehow you think they mean it.
And still to come: Radio Milano, a pizzeria and wine bar, in what was the station’s baggage room.
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LA GRANDE ORANGE CAFE
WHERE: 260 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena.
WHEN: Open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m Sun.-Thu., 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
PRICE: Salads, $9 to $13; specials, $18 to $26; burgers, $12 to 15; kids menu, $4 to $5; kids free, 4 p.m.-7 p.m.
INFO: (626) 356-4444
ON THE WEB: For more photos of La Grande Orange Cafe, go to latimes.com/orange.