A Nose for Niche
A slender bottle of serge lutens’ Fleurs d’Oranger, Sophia Coppola’s favorite orange blossom scent; an apothecary jar of chartreuse-colored Absolute Absinthe, with hints of cannabis, black tea and lotus flowers; a faceted Art Deco bottle of L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage D’Enfer, evoking sweet roses and ginger until something slightly dark and intriguing creeps in, a whisper of frankincense, a smidgen of cedar. They’re all on the shelves of Apothia, the jewel box of a fragrance boutique at Fred Segal on Melrose that is celebrating its 25th anniversary this month. Apothia offers more than 200 scents crafted with rare ingredients--Tunisian opium, Bulgarian rose, vetiver from Java. The mastermind behind it is Ron Robinson, the boutique’s owner. He’s a kingpin in the niche scent world, scouring the globe from Hong Kong to the Grand Caymans for little-known perfumes such as the intoxicating Yosh collection, a recent discovery that blends Moroccan cedar, Egyptian tuberose and dozens of other exotic notes. As far as Robinson is concerned, the more mysterious the ingredients, the better: “I’m always intrigued when I smell a fragrance and I’m challenged as to what it is.”
Robinson, 58, finds scents in unexpected places, and when he uncovers one he loves, he pursues it relentlessly. On one memorable scouting mission in London in the ‘90s, he stumbled on Czech & Speake, an Edwardian fixtures shop that happened to craft a few boutique scents on the side. One whiff of No. 88, an evocative floral and smoky concoction with a talcum-y finish, and he knew he had to bring it to Apothia. The unique combination of traditionally feminine and masculine ingredients was like nothing he had ever smelled. Czech & Speake’s owners were reluctant to let him import it to the U.S., but after six months of conversations, they acquiesced. It soon became one of Robinson’s bestsellers.
His flair for sniffing out the next big eau de parfum has made him a hero among the most finicky fragrance connoisseurs, including Karen Dubin, founder of Sniffapalooza (a website as well as an organization of perfumistas that sponsors events). In the ‘90s, she would call Apothia to ask for samples of cult collections. “It was the only place in the country where you could find a really interesting line like the People of the Labyrinths,” she says. “It smells a little bit like Play-Doh. That’s what I love about Ron. He’s not afraid to take chances.”
Robinson’s influence extends far beyond the clubby world of serious scent enthusiasts; it has reached what’s sold at the Gap and Banana Republic. According to Gary McNatton, former senior vice president of Gap personal care (and who still works on projects for the Gap’s owners), scouts from the mega-retailer often descended on Apothia to find emerging trends: “Not what’s commercial but what’s new,” he says.
Robinson moved to L.A. from El Paso in 1968 when he was 19, lured by the Beach Boys, the salty air and free love, and landed a sales job at Fred Segal. Ten years later, he had his own apparel shop within Fred Segal, and it dawned on him that he could run a fragrance business too, operating it on the business model of a fashion boutique. Apothia--a combination of “apothecary” and “utopia”--was born. “There was no place in Los Angeles, and probably anywhere in the United States,” he says, “that a cool, hip person could go to find an edited selection of beauty and fragrance and bath products.”
At first, he stocked Dior, Lancome and Coty in a small corner of his shop, but then saw that clients responded well to niche scents such as Antonia’s Flowers, a freesia-note floral. It’s a perfume he still carries. He quickly ditched the major brands, featuring instead Gendarme and other independent labels. Cult followings soon formed for these hard-to-find fragrances, and Apothia bloomed.
In 2000, Robinson launched his own line of fragrances and candles under the Apothia brand, now carried in more than 100 stores around the world. Working with artisanal scent makers such as L.A.-based Sarah Horowitz-Thran, he dreams up fragrances that challenge wearers to think beyond Calvin Klein Eternity. Robinson’s first perfume, If, was created using an unconventional method: He sent samples to 100 clients, asking for feedback at various points in the perfume-making process. The result was a crisp, citrusy blend with hints of frangipani, gardenia and other white florals. One woman who responded said it made her feel like “a heroine in an Ayn Rand novel.”
“Niche perfumes are taking off because they are able to do things that are very out of the box,” says Mary Ellen Lapsansky, executive director of the Fragrance Foundation, a nonprofit organization that educates consumers about the scent industry. In recent years, L.A. has seen several other perfume boutiques open, such as Melange Apothecary, Beautyhabit and Scent Bar.
Robinson says Apothia’s business has doubled during the last decade. He’s looking forward to May, when he’ll host Sniffapalooza members for their second event at Apothia, introducing them to local niche perfumers, holding classes and bringing in industry speakers.
“We cater to that alpha group that wants something that’s not out there,” Robinson says. “We’re still that garage band playing music.”
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Ron Robinson’s Favorite Finds
No. 88
by Czech & Speake, $162
“Leathery, deep and sexy,” Robinson says. “It’s got a lot of body to it, very warm.”
The formula: An Elizabethan recipe that combines sandalwood, bergamot, frangipani, geranium and rose otto.
Smiley
by Arthes, $45
“When you spray it, it makes you smile. It has a very citrusy note, a bright and shiny-fresh feeling.”
The formula: Blended in Grasse, France, this perfume includes cocoa extract containing phenylethamine, which purportedly induces a feeling of joy.
Luctor et Emergo
by People of the Labyrinths, $168
“There’s a juiciness and spiciness to it and an undertone of a warm, dry vanilla. There’s also a saltiness that makes it sort of savory.”
The formula: The Dutch fragrance, which comes in a beaker-shaped bottle, combines fresh grasses, white flowers, vanilla and sandalwood.
Child
$46
“A big, bold, romantic floral. There are certain people who can wear it very well, and [others] who it’s too much on.”
The formula: Jasmine and pikake (a white Hawaiian blossom) are the strongest notes in this fragrance.
Lady Vengeance
by Juliet Has a Gun, $110
“Elegant and thorny. It’s a modern way to wear a rose.”
The formula: Created by Romano Ricci, the great-grandson of fashion icon Nina Ricci, this fragrance blends Bulgarian rose, patchouli leaves and vanilla.
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A Fragrance Lexicon
Lyndsey Saul and Elizabeth Khuri
That scent smells marvelous, ma cherie. But how do you describe it? Or even begin to talk about it? Follow the lead of perfume industry insiders and learn the lingo.
Top Note
Also known as the “head note,” this is a fragrance’s most intense smell, the one you’ll notice first (usually citrus or fruits such as apple and strawberry). Top notes last only about five minutes, then they evaporate, giving way to the middle note.
Middle Note
Also known as the “heart note,” it reveals itself two minutes to an hour after application. Florals such as rose and lily are common examples.
Base Note
Scents that might be unpleasant on their own, such as musk or woody ingredients (oak moss, patchouli), are used as base notes. Barely noticeable until 30 minutes after application, they can linger up to 24 hours.
Bridge Note
These are scents that help blend the top, middle and base notes into a harmonious chord. Lavender and lemon grass are frequently used. Each note should be detectable as the fragrance warms off the skin.
Accord
A blend of two or more single scents that are combined to create a new scent, it’s the olfactory equivalent of a chord in music.
Ambery
Notes in a perfume that are warm, rich and sweet, such as benzoin resin, are referred to as ambery.
Woody
These are notes that are derived from trees, leaves and bark such as cedar, patchouli and sandalwood.
Ozone
This relatively new category refers to scents that have a brisk, airy feeling. Synthetically created, their top notes evoke an ozonic quality--many describe it as fresh, marine-like or oceanic. Cool Water by Davidoff was one of the first.
Sillage
Pronounced “seal-ahge,” it’s a French term for the trail of scent left by a departing wearer. It’s also known as “throw,” connoting the fragrance’s power and reach.
Leather
This warm, spicy base note is often found in men’s fragrances. The unique aroma comes from the blend of tobacco, birch bark and amber notes.
Gourmand
Another new category of scents, gourmand refers to those that smell like a delicious dish, sweet or savory. Vanilla is often used.
