THE GLUTTON

Famed for the diversity and authenticity of its dim sum, noodle and dumpling houses (not to mention its countless boba cafes), the San Gabriel Valley offers a less expected but no less enticing pleasure: bakeries.

The Glutton favors two SGV bakeries in particular: Kelley’s (Monterey Park) and Kiki (Alhambra). Both feature cheesecakes, fruit tarts, mousse squares and gorgeously decorated cakes resting alongside savory ham and cheese buns, onion rolls filled with shredded meat and peppery meat pies.

The Glutton has a special fondness for sponge cake, and Kelley’s makes it particularly well, serving a cone of airy, yolkless cake that’s more moist than the cauliflower-size version at Kwan Lac (Monterey Park) but lighter than the sponge cake at Diamond Bakery (various locations). On the savory side, Kelley’s also has a knack for the braided bun embedded with hot dog slices and topped with cheese.

Kiki, meanwhile, takes another Glutton favorite, the custard bun, and elevates it to new heights, offering three equally stunning variations: a mid-size, oval roll filled with dense, pale yellow custard; a round, enclosed roll sprinkled with crystallized sugar; and the monster of them all, a 12-inch, custard mini-baguette. Think of them the way the Glutton does: tea sandwiches on steroids.

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-- theguide@latimes.com