NEW IN TOWN

In a quest to make his upcoming Church & State brasserie in downtown L.A.’s Biscuit Lofts the “most authentic brasserie in L.A.,” tapas titan Steven Arroyo opened an intimate, 14-stool wine bar in the tiny space adjacent to the Los Feliz outpost of his Cobras & Matadors restaurant. The bar’s oddball name is Sgt. Recruiter, and Arroyo calls it a “skill honer.” He’s hired a knowledgeable and friendly staff of three to dole out wine tastes and serve up a limited but satisfying menu of oysters, steak frites and cheese. For a treat, come when spunky Robyn Miller is working: Her easygoing manner and lopsided grin make the place feel completely unpretentious. 4655 Hollywood Blvd., (323) 669-3922