SLEEVES: SO OVERRATED
Erin WASSON knows a thing or two about how to make a vest look cool. She’s been the stylist for the last two runway shows from Alexander Wang, a young New York designer making his mark with smart, moody sportswear.
For the fall show, Wasson threw a longer, unbuttoned vest over a baggy white T-shirt (teamed with skinny leather pants) and paired tight, buttoned-up vests with a black mini-skirt and raggedy cutoff jeans. For spring, she teamed a boxy gray vest with a pair of bloomer-esque black shorts. In both shows, the structured pieces look effortless -- in that Kate Moss/Charlotte Gainsbourg “Who, me?” way.
Wasson is also a big name in the modeling world and has walked the runways for Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Balenciaga and appeared in campaigns for mass-market biggies such as Victoria’s Secret and Maybelline. And she’s a girl-about-town in L.A., where she splits her time between New York, and frequently pulls cute vests out of her own closets to hit the scene. “I always thought of vests as a version of the cardigan,” she says, “another way to layer up your look.”
Full versus shrunken
Wasson favors a fuller-cut vest but doesn’t dismiss the mini-vest (one that looks two sizes too small and sometimes doesn’t button) currently sweeping Hollywood. Either way, the bottom of the vest should just about meet the waistline of a skirt or pant -- or dip below it. (The days of wearing a shrunken vest over a long, untucked T-shirt, a la Hilary Duff, are over.)
Underneath it all
“I think a vest looks better when you wear it with a V-neck,” Wasson says, “It shows off your collarbone and your cleavage, if you have it -- which I don’t.” And forget about overpriced designer tees. Wasson’s a fan of the Hanes T-shirts you buy in a three-pack to wear underneath (tuck them in if the vest is shorter). Roll up the sleeves and it looks a little undone, like you’re not trying too hard. Or just wear the vest alone. “I love the look of a vest with nothing on underneath. The parts of the body a vest shows off are things that women should be really stoked on.”
Keep it loose
Wasson likes the contrast of a suit vest with street basics. “A classic button-down underneath gets a little too preppy for me,” she says. “It seems a little too contrived. And I’m not a fan of the tie. A great scarf is much cooler and a little less done-up. I don’t think everything should be a total look. Try to find something a little quirky. If it’s too much of a uniform, change it up. Take the pants you’re wearing off and throw on jeans, or throw a denim jacket on over the vest. Take the unexpected and throw it on.”
Baubles
Wasson favors chunky, vintage costume jewelry such as oversized rings, thick bracelets and quirky, organic-looking metal pieces. “I’ve always been inspired by tribal, armor, organic and Deco designs, but if I wear a necklace, I keep it to just one.”
Patterns and prints
Wasson found one of her favorite vests -- a men’s black waistcoat covered in metal studs -- at an L.A. thrift store, and likes vests of all stripes. “I like a proper men’s pinstripe, but I’m even down with an Indian-inspired Aztec print.” But if you’re going loud on top, keep it quiet on the bottom (and underneath), with basic, solid-colored pieces. Layering a patterned vest under things is another way to go. “I think the trick to making that work is when only a bit of the print pops out, just enough to add contrast.”
Bottom half
“Layering a vest over a dress is definitely an option, but I prefer it with pants or a skirt,” Wasson says. Pencil-skirts and long, voluminous (even hippie) skirts are two favorite pairings. “Just make sure you don’t wear a short skirt, or you’ll look like Britney Spears -- like you have on a naughty schoolgirl costume.”
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