THE ENABLER

When Marilyn Monroe stayed in the Beverly Carlton apartments in Beverly Hills, it was all smooth surfaces, hard lines and Midcentury Modern icy cool. Maybe it was the 1999 re-christening as the Avalon Hotel and a Kelly Wearstler redesign, but the hard lines and chilly remove now extend to the high-flown clientele and the often snobbish serving staff.

The Enabler likes our bars like we like our lovers: dirty and cheap. But the recent birthday party of a scene-conscious, well-heeled friend prompted us to drive the 11 miles of escalating income west from downtown to Avalon’s Blue on Blue restaurant and bar.

We didn’t expect the minimalist poolside cabana our friend had staked out to be a bastion of affection and camaraderie from the staff. But we did expect to be treated as someone with a tiny bit of discretionary income and human dignity. The party was cheerful, but Blue on Blue thwarted us at every turn: twice being told we couldn’t order drinks at the inside bar, eventually receiving a cocktail as weak as the American currency and a waiter blowing out our tea light candles in the middle of our conversation. We suspect Marilyn wouldn’t have put up with it, and neither will we again.

9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 407-7791

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-- theguide@latimes.com