A chef here has to stay on track

Shaun Murphy was facing a chef’s worst nightmare: a dining room full of guests and nothing to feed them. And running around the corner to the market was absolutely out of the question. Murphy was cooking aboard a train that was stuck between Los Angeles and Chicago.

A highly regarded chef, Murphy was in the galley of a private rail car that was delayed for 12 hours after a train up ahead went off the track in Iowa. The passengers had been scheduled to arrive at their destination well before dinner, but Murphy wasn’t about to let them go hungry.

“I opened the refrigerator and said, ‘OK, I’ve got strudel dough. I’ve got some chicken. I’ve got spinach leftover from the creamed spinach last night,’ ” Murphy recalls.

Thus was born chicken strudel, also known as her “Derailment Special.”

A graduate of New York Restaurant School, Murphy, 45, worked in high-end restaurants and catering companies before moving to California and hearing the “all aboard” call 16 years ago. She spends much of her time aboard the Los Angeles-based Scottish Thistle. When that rail car is not on the track, she is in demand for gigs on other trains.

“There’s a lot of seat of your pants stuff” involved in the job, says Murphy, who now can’t imagine cooking in a kitchen that doesn’t sway back and forth. “It’s never the same from any day to the next, and I have a great deal of autonomy. I will never be bored.”

Californian Dean McCormick bought the Scottish Thistle 16 years ago, after a long career in the transportation industry. He hired Murphy on the recommendation of a friend and has high praise for her cooking skills. “She knows what I like better than I do.”

During the summer, the rail car is used for day charters from Los Angeles’ Union Station to the Del Mar racetrack, serving brunch on the way south and dinner on the trip back. The car also is available for journeys that last days or even weeks. But regardless of length, McCormick says meals are a highlight of any trip.

“Just the fact that you’re sitting there watching the scenery go by, it’s a different experience than dining in a restaurant,” McCormick says.

There are more than 100 private rail cars in the United States. Most owners are wealthy train buffs who buy the cars for personal travel or as business ventures. The cars meet rigorous safety standards before being hitched to Amtrak trains, which pull them along their routes.

Private rail cars can offer luxurious accommodations, including lush bedrooms and baths, living rooms, kitchens and formal dining rooms. Passengers may dress up for dinner and sit at tables adorned with fine china, crystal and silver, enjoying terrific meals and white-glove service. The ambience and food take travelers back to the grand old days when dining by rail was a truly memorable experience.

“Bad food can make a trip miserable,” says Amanda Hatrick, 20, whose parents own the vintage rail car Overland Trail, also based at Union Station, which can be booked for custom charters. Hatrick grew up in the train galley, where she has been mentored by Murphy. She now works as a part-time cook aboard her family’s private rail car while she’s attending school.

“It’s fast-paced, and the balance thing is always an issue. I learned everything from Shaun,” Hatrick says. “She knows what can and can’t be done.”

Most rail chefs are independent contractors, in demand for their skill in preparing gourmet meals while hurtling along at high speeds, which can play all kinds of tricks on food. Imagine trying to cook while standing in an earthquake simulator, and you get the idea.

“It was a challenge in the beginning,” says Kevin Langton, who has cooked for more than 20 years in private rail cars.

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Pie, no pumpkin

On one of his first trips, Langton, a veteran of restaurant and country club kitchens, prepared a Thanksgiving feast. When it came time to remove his pumpkin pies from the oven, he got a surprise: The crusts were empty, the filling gone AWOL during a bumpy ride. Despite this rough start, Langton stayed on track and is considered one of the top train chefs in the United States. He often can be found in the galleys of the Georgia 300, based in Florida or the Chapel Hill, based in Cincinnati.

“I got into it, and I’ve been doing it ever since,” says Langton, 50, who lives in Florida for the few months a year when he is not on a train. “I’ve enjoyed the freedom of traveling and cooking in a very prestigious car. It’s a great life.”

As Langton has cooked his way across the country, he has memorized where the track is bad and times his meals accordingly, only serving his butternut squash soup, for example, during smooth patches. And, never forgetting those doomed pumpkin pies, Langton says: “I do a lot of my baking when we’re not moving.”

It’s not only the constant motion that makes the job a challenge. Other obstacles are the small cooking space and the fact that you can’t run out to the grocery if all of your eggs smash on the floor in the middle of Wyoming. Sloshing hot liquid can be a hazard. Pouring wine at the table requires balance and timing, so it ends up in the glass and not the passenger’s lap.

The compact galleys offer special features such as dish mounts and latches on cupboards to keep flying saucers grounded and to hold china and crystal in place. Lips on stove tops prevent pots from sliding off. And chefs follow basic safety rules, such as no deep-frying on the train.

Most galleys hold only a few days’ worth of supplies. Chefs have favorite markets across the country and build meals around fresh and seasonal finds, restocking when the train has layovers.

To cope with a small pantry, Murphy tries to adhere to what she calls the “seven ingredient or less” rule for most recipes. Sometimes, despite her best planning, she says the train requires her to be flexible and “roll with it,” no pun intended.

Changes in altitude can cause problems. After mixing up batter in San Francisco, Murphy was puzzled as to why her baking cake was not rising. “Then I gazed out the window at the snowy peaks of Donner Pass,” she says.

Both Murphy and Langton have cooked for celebrities and politicians. Murphy says that a private rail car is a way for famous people to travel without being harassed by paparazzi. “A lot of people don’t know we exist. We’re a well-kept secret.”

During the 2004 presidential campaign, Langton prepared a turkey dinner, which prompted Democratic candidate Sen. John F. Kerry to roll up his sleeves and carve.

When singer Barry Gibb and his family rode the train from Miami to New York for the Grammy Awards, Langton was ready to make a gourmet dinner. Then Gibb surprised him by saying what he really wanted was a burger and fries.

“I had to grind up filet mignon to make hamburger,” Langton recalls.

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Hey, can I help?

On most rail cars the kitchen is the chef’s inner sanctum, but that’s not always the case.

“Often, after a few margaritas, people feel inclined to help me in the kitchen,” says Emily Bradley, 29, the chef and event planner on the private car Patron Tequila Express, which has a galley big enough to hold several wannabe railroad Rachael Rays.

The cooking style on this rail car, which is used for corporate and entertainment-industry events, is more casual than the white-glove service on other cars, Bradley says. She tries to include local flavors and tailors her menus to embody cities along the route.

Bradley and the other rail chefs use words like “fun” and “adventure” when talking about their jobs. Once they get onboard, the only looking back is from the rear train platform, where they can relax and enjoy spectacular views.

“If I were still in a restaurant, I would be only in the kitchen and only dealing with food,” says Murphy. “ On the train, I have a great deal of contact with my guests. Some of them I’ve become close to and consider friends, and almost all of our clients arrive onboard ready to be happy. I’ve been able to travel to places I’d ordinarily never have gone.”

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food@latimes.com

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Peach and pecan sundae

Total time: 45 minutes

Servings: 8

Note: Adapted from the book “From the Dining Car” by James D. Porterfield. Served by chef Kevin Langton on the Georgia 300.

1/2 cup chopped pecans

4 large peaches

Juice of 1 lemon

6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) butter

1/2 cup light brown sugar

3 tablespoons heavy cream

3 tablespoons bourbon

1 quart vanilla bean ice cream

Mint leaves for garnish

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and roast until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, peel and pit the peaches, then cut them into 1-inch cubes and place in a bowl of water in which the juice of 1 lemon has been added to prevent discoloring. Set aside.

3. In a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and brown sugar, stirring occasionally. Cook until the mixture is thick enough to adhere to the back of a spoon, about 3 minutes. Slowly add the heavy cream and stir until thick and smooth. Add bourbon and mix well. Drain the peach cubes and add them and the toasted pecans, reduce heat to a simmer and cook 15 minutes, or until the peaches have softened and the sauce is nicely thickened. Remove from heat.

4. Serve in dishes over vanilla bean ice cream and garnish with fresh mint leaves.

Each serving: 380 calories; 4 grams protein; 39 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 23 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 60 mg. cholesterol; 60 mg. sodium.

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Field salad with fresh balsamic vinaigrette

Total time: 20 minutes, plus soaking and cooling time

Servings: 4

Note: Adapted from Shaun Murphy from the book “From the Dining Car” by James D. Porterfield. Served on the private rail car the Scottish Thistle.

Balsamic vinaigrette dressing

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

3/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, or to taste

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

In a food processor or blender, pulse together the mustard and garlic until finely chopped. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil, then the balsamic vinegar, lemon juice and thyme. Adjust the vinegar if desired and season to taste. This makes a generous cup dressing, more than is required for this recipe; the remaining dressing will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

Salad and assembly

1/3 cup golden raisins

1/4 cup pine nuts

4 cups mesclun lettuce

Prepared balsamic vinaigrette

1/4 pound goat cheese

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a small bowl, soak the raisins in water to cover until plump, 30 minutes to 1 hour, then drain and set aside.

3. While the raisins are soaking, spread the pine nuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven just until golden brown, not dark, about 5 minutes. Be careful not to over-toast or the nuts will burn. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

4. Place the lettuce in a large bowl and toss with the raisins and nuts. Add the dressing a couple of tablespoons at a time, tossing in just enough to coat the salad lightly. Pile the salad on each of 4 small salad plates and evenly top with crumbled goat cheese.

Each serving: 268 calories; 7 grams protein; 13 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 22 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 13 mg. cholesterol; 162 mg. sodium.

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Chicken strudel with fresh tomato compote

Total time: 1 hour and 20 minutes, plus cooling time for the mushrooms

Servings: 7 to 8

Note: Adapted from Shaun Murphy’s “Derailment Special.” Served on the private rail car the Scottish Thistle.

Olive oil

1 1/2 cups sliced brown mushrooms, such as cremini (larger portabello mushrooms can be used, with gills removed and mushrooms diced)

Kosher salt

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 pound frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed of excess moisture

1 cup diced cooked chicken

1/4 pound cream cheese

3/4 cup shredded cheese (a mixture including Jack, cheddar, mozzarella and/or provolone works well, but be careful not to use Swiss)

Freshly ground pepper

1 egg, whisked (optional)

10 large phyllo sheets (about 14-by-18-inches)

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. Heat a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, then the mushrooms and a pinch of salt and saute until the mushrooms are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic, reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is aromatic, 1 to 2 minutes more. Remove from heat and place the mushrooms in a medium bowl to cool.

3. When the mushrooms are cool, stir in the spinach and chicken. Add the cream cheese, gently tossing in almond-sized pieces, then gently stir in the shredded cheese and season to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, stir in the egg to use as a binder.

4. Layer 5 sheets of phyllo one directly on top of another, lightly brushing each with olive oil. Place half of the chicken filling in a log shape along the short end of the phyllo rectangle. Roll the filling in the phyllo, similar to a burrito, tucking in the edges as you go to prevent the filling from spilling out. Brush the top of the strudel lightly with olive oil and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining 5 sheets of phyllo and filling.

5. Bake the strudel until lightly golden-brown on top and warmed through, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool slightly before slicing.

Fresh tomato compote and assembly

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 large beefsteak tomatoes, coarsely chopped (skins and seeds optional)

4 teaspoons chopped garlic

2 to 3 tablespoons heavy cream

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1 heaping tablespoon chopped fresh basil (from about 5 large leaves)

Dry white wine, for thinning the sauce, if desired

Chicken strudel

1. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and tomatoes and saute, stirring frequently, just until they start to break down, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and reduce the heat to medium. Simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the garlic softens and the sauce begins to thicken, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in the cream and season with 1 teaspoon, or to taste, of salt and several grinds of fresh pepper. Stir in the basil and thin, if desired, with white wine. Remove from heat.

3. Slice the strudel into wedges and serve with the tomato compote.

Each of 8 servings: 269 calories; 13 grams protein; 19 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 16 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 45 mg. cholesterol; 569 mg. sodium.