South Africa travel info

THE BEST WAY TO SOUTH AFRICA

From LAX to Johannesburg, the gateway city, connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Air France, American, Delta, British, Lufthansa, United and Virgin Atlantic, many connecting to South African Airways. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,574.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 27 (the South Africa country code) and then the local numbers listed here.

WHERE TO STAY

In Cape Town:

Cape Hollow Boutique Hotel, 88 Queen Victoria St.; 21-423-1260; https://www.capetownhollow.co.za. A grown-up, low-key, 54-room retreat across the street from the South African Museum and planetarium. Mountain-facing rooms have great views on clear days. Spa. Breakfast in downstairs restaurant is included. No Wi-Fi above the first floor. Doubles begin at about $120.

Grand Daddy Hotel, 38 Long St.; 21-424-7247; https://www.granddaddy.co.za. A historic four-story building now rendered so hip that travelers older than 35 may feel geriatric. Crowning touch: a rooftop “penthouse” of seven Airstream trailers. (But I wouldn’t book a trailer — the standard rooms are more spacious and comfortable.) Doubles from $130.

In Johannesburg:

Melrose Arch Hotel, 1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch; 11-214-6666; https://www.africanpridehotels.com/melrose-arch-hotel. About 119 flashy, luxurious rooms, pool, restaurant and every amenity you’d imagine in a multi-use complex that’s at least as glitzy and thoroughly policed as anything you’d find in Orange County. Playful design (note the oversized coat hangers inside and tin buckets outside). Popular with business travelers, which means higher prices on weekdays. Doubles from $220 but more generally from $272.

Pathways Guest House, 99 Auckland Ave., Auckland Park; 11-888-1735; https://www.apexcom.co.za. Pathways, which has 11 suites, opened in January. It’s the newest of four B&Bs run by Apex Accommodations in the same upscale, university-adjacent, slightly Bohemian area. Like most other properties in the residential neighborhood, Pathways is surrounded by high walls and an electric fence. Spacious rooms and bathrooms in a contemporary mansion purpose-built as a B&B. (Apex has not yet added Pathways to its website.) Doubles from about $105 a night.

WHERE TO EAT

In Cape Town

Mama Africa, 178 Long St., 21-426-1017; https://www.mamaafricarest.net. Cuisine from all over Africa, including many game meats, in dark rooms full of folk art and live music, heavy on the marimba. (I liked the hunger’s game potjie, but the crocodile kebabs were chewy.) Main dishes $7-$23.

In Stellenbosch

Apprentice@Institute of Culinary Arts, Oude Hoek Centre, Andringa Street; 21-887-8985, https://www.icachef.co.za/team_olive.php. Food by student chefs (in my case, excellent lamb ravioli) makes a good lunch option. Good prices and a stylish setting on a street full of art galleries. Main dishes about $7-$10.

In Johannesburg

Lucky Bean, 16 7th St., Melville; 11-482-5572, https://www.luckybeantree.co.za. Bustling place with popular patio in a BoHo neighborhood. Seasonal produce. Lots of organic and biodynamic wines on menu. (Known as Soulsa until late 2009.) Main dishes $9-$17.

Doppio Zero, 10 Glen Eagles Road, Greenside; 11-646-8740, https://www.doppio.co.za. Set on a block full of busy restaurants (mostly Italian), this one was born as a bakery in 2002. Now it’s grown into a proper restaurant with several locations in three cities. Lots of pizza (great crust) and pasta. Main dishes $5-$31.

Meat Co., 6 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch; 11-684-1787; https://www.themeatandwineco.com. A modern steakhouse with a big patio in a salubrious mall in the city’s northern suburbs. I liked the oxtail. Main dishes $11-$35.

WHERE TO GO

In Stellenbosch, Ernie Els winery, https://www.ernieelswines.com, and Spier Winery, https://www.spier.co.za.

Between Johannesburg and Pretoria, Elephant Sanctuary, Hartsbeespoort Dam: https://www.elephantsanctuary.co.za.

Between Johannesburg and Pretoria, Lesedi Cultural Village: https://www.lesedi.com.

In Johannesburg, Apartheid Museum: https://www.apartheidmuseum.org.

In Soweto, Orlando Towers: https://www.orlandotowers.co.za.

In Pretoria, Voortrekker Monument: https://www.voortrekkermon.org.za.

WHAT TO KNOW

Traveling alone can be risky in South Africa, especially after dark. These companies offer group or individual tours, depending on your interests and budget.

Thompsons Holidays, 31-275-3500; https://www.thompsonsafrica.com. One of the largest tour operators in the country, Thompsons offers scores of day-trips and multi-day itineraries and has offices in Cape Town and Johannesburg.

In Cape Town, Cape Convoy tours, 72-650-3755; https://www.capeconvoy.com. This is a small operation run by longtime local Rob Salmon, who gives day trips a personal touch.

In Johannesburg, Hawkeye Safaris, 11-886-8901; https://www.hawkeyesafaris.com. Another small outfit, Hawkeye specializes in wildlife trips but can also arrange city excursions in and around Johannesburg.

TO LEARN MORE

FIFA: https://www.fifa.com/worldcup.

South Africa tourism: https://www.southafrica.net.