Paris Fashion Week fall 2013: Alexis Mabille review

PARIS -- The crowd was wound up for Alexis Mabille’s fall 2013 collection shown Wednesday afternoon at the Palais de Tokyo. And understandably so. The French designer is still basking in the glory of his moment in the Hollywood spotlight on Oscar night, when he dressed actress Zoe Saldana in a belted white gown with petal-like details at the top, and an asymmetrical bottom.

And coincidentally, his fall collection was designed with a film in mind.

The inspiration: Tony Scott’s stylish 1983 vampire thriller, “The Hunger,” starring Catherine Deneuve, Susan Sarandon and David Bowie, with costumes by Milena Canonero.

The look: Night butterfly, according to the show notes, which amounted to a look that was femme fatale-meets-ingenue. Blouses with jeweled collars tucked into menswear-inspired trousers. Super-short, wrap miniskirts worn with men’s shirts or jeweled cardigans. Coats and jackets with bottom halves that zip off. Leopard burnout velvet blouse and slim black pants. Jeweled sweater dresses. Minidresses with cutouts, or painted with geometric lines.


The verdict: Uneven. Some of the pieces (the openwork sweaters with allover pompom details, for example) came out of nowhere and made it hard to buy Mabille’s sexy vibe. But I gotta rent that movie.


2013 Fashion Week coverage

Paris Fashion Week: Fall 2013 primer


Paris Fashion Week fall 2013: Anthony Vaccarello