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SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
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There’s nothing subtle about this Singaporean xiao long bao restaurant

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Steamed salted egg yolk custard lava charcoal buns from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Pan-fried Shanghai pork buns from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Pan-fried pumpkin pastries from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

The drunken chicken from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Radish pastries from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Fried rice with crispy pork chop from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

La mian with dan dan sauce from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Double-boiled chicken soup from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Pan-fried pancake with red bean paste from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Spicy Sichuan crispy chicken from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Pork dumplings in a hot chile vinaigrette from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

A dish of steamed glutinous rice stuffed in red date from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

SINGAPORE, SINGAPORE -- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019: at Paradise Dynasty in Singapore on Sept. 26, 2019. In Singapore's frenetic restaurant scene, where there's a Din Tai Fung, there's usually a Paradise Dynasty nearby. Eldwin Chua, founder of the Paradise chain, is determined to unseat Taiwan's Din Tai Fung as the world's best known purveyor of soup dumplings. He'll get that chance when he opens his first U.S. store inside Bloomingdale's in South Coast Plaza next year, steps away from one of the busiest Din Tai Fung stores in Southern California. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

Lettuce roll with sesame sauce from Paradise Dynasty. (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

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