Jonathan Gold reviews Pizzana

Daniele Uditi, a celebrity of L.A. pizza, is baking at the new Pizzana in Brentwood. This is the aglio olio pizza.

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June 15, 2017 10:12 AM PT

Daniele Uditi has worked everywhere from his family’s bakery to Naples’ famous l’Antica Pizzeria di Michele.

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The amatriciana pizza at Pizzana

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Steam rises from a pizza cooked in a wood oven at Pizzana in Brentwood.

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The Neo-Margherita pizza at Pizzana.

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The cacio pepe pizza, based on a classic pasta dish.

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Pizza aficionados Jason Rosentreter, 5, and Leah, 2, fill up on Pizzana’s offerings.

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Bianca pizza

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The Pignatiello at Pizzana

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Corbarina pizza

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Another look at the Corbarina

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This one’s called the Messicana: chorizo, cilantro lime sauce, queso fresco, jalapeno and pickled sweet chile.

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Charred artichoke hearts with fried baby artichokes, toasted pine nut, parmigiano and lemon citronette.

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House-made chicken liver pate and San Marzano jam, served with wood-fired bread.

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Chef Daniele Uditi at his Pizzana restaurant in Brentwood

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It’s mealtime for, from foreground left, Anahita Hedayati, 11, Mandana Farmanfarmaian, Amir Hedayati and Ariana Hedayati, 9.

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A birthday celebration at Pizzana in Brentwood, a neighborhood restaurant that happens to be run by a pizza celebrity.

(Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)