
Carmen Ortega with a dish called alambre, in the kitchen at Antojitos Carmen Restaurant, located at 2510 Cesar Chavez Ave. in East

The torta milanesa at Antojitos Carmen is one of the restaurant’s best dishes. The overloaded sandwich isn’t filled with the limp breaded beef you encounter elsewhere, but a filet that’s fried until it fractures like crisp, herb-rubbed bacon. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Huaraches tinga is an oblong pane of fried masa daubed with beans and topped with chipotle-soaked shredded beef and more goodies. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)
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The hearty beverage atole de Nuez is made with milk, cornstarch, walnuts, cinnamon and sugar. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Customer Jesus Robles waits inside the intimate storefront restaurant on Cesar Chavez Avenue. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)

Alex Pardo enjoys a plate of taquitos and the street scene out on Cesar Chavez Avenue. (Gary Friedman / Los Angeles Times)