
Kyoung Sun Lee carries a tray of banchan, or side dishes, that are served with Korean meals. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

Ho-An Noh and Jae-Pyo Choi, facing camera, enjoy a meal at the Koreatown restaurant Mapo. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)

Roasted Ga Jae Mi fish at Mapo restaurant in Koreatown. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)
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Spicy beef soup is served at Mapo. (Rick Loomis / Los Angeles Times)