Bear Flag Fish Co. in Newport Beach

Bear Flag Fish Co. is a vision of seafood simplicity, the type that should exist along every waterfront but that rarely does.  (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The Bear Flag Fish Co. in Newport Beach is a fish market that also serves a loyal crowd with fresh seafood, sandwiches, tacos, burritos, salads and more.  (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The grilled swordfish sandwich begins with a soft and sturdy baguette from the local C’est Si Bon Bakery.  (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The wall decor at Bear Flag Fish Co. helps set the mood for loyal customers.  (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

The market’s seafood case is front and center at Bear Flag.  (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)

There’s almost always a line at Bear Flag Fish Co., which retains its beach-town vibe.  (Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times)