Jonathan Gold reviews Gwang Yang BBQ

Patrons wait to be seated during a busy lunch at Gwang Yang BBQ restaurant.

The Yook Jeon (Beef Pancake) at Gwang Yang Korean BBQ restaurant.   (Mariah Tauger / For the Times )

Marinated prime beef short ribs at Gwang Yang BBQ restaurant.

Before and after bulgogi.   (Mariah Tauger / For The Times )

Yeongyang galbitang, or simmered beef ribs and radish in a white beef stock, at Gwang Yang BBQ in Koreatown.

Lunch at Gwang Yang BBQ.

The prime yangnyeom galbi, or marinated prime beef short ribs.

American kobe yukhoe, or Korean style premium beef tartar.

Banchans, or side dishes, at Gwang Yang BBQ.

Lunch at Gwang Yang BBQ.

Banchans, or side dishes, at Gwang Yang BBQ.

Patrons wait to be seated during a busy lunch at Gwang Yang BBQ.