Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken

Line chef Ricky Dyne, left, tosses hot shake fries as line chef Mario Aguilar, right, looks on at Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken.

The Howlin’ Ray’s medium hot chicken and a side of collard greens.   (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

Fried chicken is drained of oil at Howlin’ Ray’s. Chef Johnny Zone and his wife, Amanda Chapman, own the place.

The Howlin’ Ray’s Howlin’ Hot chicken and a side of pimento mac salad.

Chef Johnny Ray Zone, right, delivers a country fried chicken sandwich to a customer at Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times )

Nickel’s Diner’s specialty Kickin Chicken.

Customers dine at Nickel Diner in downtown Los Angeles.