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Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken

The country fried chicken sandwich is on the menu at Howlin' Ray's hot chicken located inside the Far East Plaza in Chinatown in Los Angeles.

The country fried chicken sandwich is on the menu at Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken located inside the Far East Plaza in Chinatown in Los Angeles.

  (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

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Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's

Line chef Ricky Dyne, left, tosses hot shake fries as line chef Mario Aguilar, right, looks on at Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken.

  (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's

The Howlin’ Ray’s medium hot chicken and a side of collard greens.   (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's

Fried chicken is drained of oil at Howlin’ Ray’s. Chef Johnny Zone and his wife, Amanda Chapman, own the place.

  (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Howlin' Ray's

The Howlin’ Ray’s Howlin’ Hot chicken and a side of pimento mac salad.

  (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Johnny Ray Zone, right, delivers a country fried chicken sandwich to a customer at Howlin' Ray's hot chicken.

Chef Johnny Ray Zone, right, delivers a country fried chicken sandwich to a customer at Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken.   (Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times )

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  (Cheryl A. Guerrero / Los Angeles Times)

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