Jazz and Tui of Jitlada Thai restaurant

Sarintip “Jazz” Singsanong sets a table during a quiet moment at Jitlada Restaurant.   (Ken Hively / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Tui arranging incoming orders on a recent busy night.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Some of the many write-ups of the restaurant are displayed at each table.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Tui prepares a dish in the kitchen. He sometimes makes multiple trips to the market each day for fresh ingredients.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Some of the many write-ups of the restaurant adorn the walls.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Jazz inputting orders on a recent busy night.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Tui prepares a curry dish in the kitchen. Jitlada has almost 400 items on the menu.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Jazz garnishes one of the dishes in the kitchen before it is served to a customer.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Tui prepares a catfish curry dish in the kitchen.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Jazz speaks with customers in the packed dining room.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Catfish curry, ready to send out to a customer.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Jazz preparing to take a prepared dish out to customers.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

The popular restaurant often fills up quickly. A sign gently reminds customers that the food is on its way.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Some of the many write-ups of the restaurant are displayed at each table. A drawing by Matt Groening, a frequent customer, is in the center.   (Noelle Carter / Los Angeles Times)

Khao yam, a colorful rice salad made in the style of the province of Songkhla in southern Thailand, is a specialty of Jitlada Restaurant.
Recipe
  (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)

Sarintip “Jazz” Singsanong, and her brother, Suthiporn “Tui” Sungkamee, co-owners of Jitlada Restauarant.   (Coral Von Zumwalt / For the Times)