The Church Key on the Sunset Strip serves a la carte as well as a la cart: In addition to menu items, dishes pass by on carts, from which diners may select them dim sum style. Keith Walker walks a cart through the dining room. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The Church Key is the project of maitre d’ Joseph Sabato, bartender Devon Espinosa and chef Steven Fretz, who have been around town for years, although not always together, at places like XIV, Bazaar, Pour Vous and Ink. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Bartender Pete Capella shakes up a cocktail. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Fernando Betancourt slices Benton country ham with a red, hand-cranked Berkel ham slicer from the 1950s. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Benton country ham is served with dried Apricot mostarda, house pickles and grilled sourdough. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Chelsea Franz prepares an alcoholic Kool Pop from a vintage PanAm drinks cart. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
An assortment of offerings on a cart. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Steven Fretz displays a tapioca crusted tai snapper with broccolini and white soy vinaigrette. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Ahi tuna tartare with pomegranate, Greek yogurt, cucumber and pappadam. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Ososky’s potato pierogies, apple butter, aged Gouda, creme fraiche and chives. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A toolbox with chicken liver parfait, huckleberry, brioche, sea salt and chives. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Tikka masala wth dehydrated mango, cucumber raita and jasmine rice. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Frog hollow pear salad with manouri cheese, frisee, black walnuts and poached pear vinaigrette. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Brioche donuts with brown butter glaze and cinnamon caramel dessert and a black sesame milkshake. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A Pink Lips cocktail. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A look at the dinning area. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A close-up of a table setting. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Wall decor. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The entrance to the women’s restroom. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The exterior of the Church Key in West Hollywood. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
