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In the kitchen: Olive oil cake and grapes

Kyoho grapes are terrific when paired with salty cheeses.
(Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
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Reader Joan Moon of Burbank couldn’t stop thinking about the olive oil cake she had at Toma restaurant in Santa Barbara. With a rich, fruity crumb, notes of citrus and rich Marcona almonds, it’s our new favorite dessert. We caught up with Toma chef Nat Ely who was happy to share his recipe.

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We’ve also been infatuated with the sheer variety of grapes to be found in the markets right now, and have plenty of recipe ideas to keep you busy throughout the season. Food editor Amy Scattergood checks out Lucky Peach’s newest cookbook, “The Wurst of Lucky Peach,” and beer writer John Verive recommends four saison beers to enjoy during these hot summer days.

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Noelle Carter

A CULINARY SOS FOR OLIVE OIL CAKE

Toma chef Nat Ely has been baking variations of his olive oil cake for 25 years, varying up the flavorings at times with rosemary and Meyer lemon. The current version includes both orange and lemon zest, with added richness and texture from chopped Marcona almonds. Ely shares his recipe, so you can have a little taste of Santa Barbara at home.

Toma's olive oil cake
Toma’s olive oil cake
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times )

WHAT TO DO NOW THAT GRAPES ARE IN SEASON

Southern California grape season is here, with varieties ranging from sweet Flame to early-maturing Black Emerald and jammy Concord. And while certain varieties can be found at supermarkets, such as green Thompson, look for darker, almost amber Thompson clusters at farmers markets for more depth of flavor. We share more tips and recipes.

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“THE WURST OF LUCKY PEACH: A TREASURY OF ENCASED MEAT”

If you’re a fan of the quarterly food journal of “Lucky Peach,” you’re probably more than familiar with the publication’s first cookbook, “101 Easy Asian Recipes,” which came out last fall. Its latest cookbook delves into the world of sausage (the title a play on the German word, “wurst”), at once thorough and hilarious, including everything from recipes to weiner jokes.

FOUR BEERS TO ENJOY THIS SUMMER

“Saison” means season in French, and it also refers to a type of farmhouse ale — brewed to be light and refreshing, and perfect for the summer months. In America, craft brewers have embraced the style, turning out a wide variety of saisons that are both traditional and creative. Whether you’re planning an evening at the Hollywood Bowl or your next weekend party, we have four beers to keep on your radar.

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Logsdon Farmhouse Ale
Logsdon Farmhouse Ale
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times )

EXTRA ZUCCHINI? MAKE THIS QUICK SUMMER SLAW

Zucchini are wonderful cooked, but they can be just as great served raw; the squash is light and crisp with delicate flavor. If you’re looking for a simple recipe, consider making a quick slaw. It’s a perfect side dish for busy weeknights, picnics and weekend gatherings. Here’s the recipe.

Zucchini slaw
Zucchini slaw
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times )

Love cooking as much as I do? Follow me @noellecarter

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