Ooh, la la! Bistro is magnifique
I have been eagerly awaiting the dinner menu at Bistro Papillote after enjoying a wonderful lunch there, which I wrote about in July.
The Costa Mesa restaurant finally got its liquor license and is now serving dinner on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays in addition to breakfast and lunch every day.
The chef, Laurent Brazier, has a long list of credits as a culinary professional, having worked in some of the finest restaurants, hotels and country clubs in France. He is now the executive chef instructor for La Cuisine Culinary Arts.
Located in SOCO’s OCMix, Bistro Papillote has transformed a small dining area and an open-air patio in Orange County into a bit of France. The food here is as good as any you might find in any first-rate Parisian bistro. It reminded me fondly of the many meals I have eaten with my husband in Paris.
I don’t often see lobster bisque on a menu, so I was eager to try this version. It was fabulous, as good as any I have had. The generous portion of soup was creamy and rich, but not overly so. It was dotted with a good amount of lobster, and the flavor was ambrosial.
Of course, onion soup, baked with Gruyere cheese, is also offered. Other items on the starter list include escargot and the duck confit salad, both authentic offerings. Ahi tartare comes with olive tapenade, avocado mousse and a quail egg on top.
The bistro also has a very nice cheese plate, the L’assiette de fromage, with assorted imported cheeses, fig jam, roasted nuts and dried fruits, all served with a French baguette.
On the lighter side was a starter described as Shrimp “Riviera” Cocktail. This featured a plate of poached jumbo shrimp in a creamy cognac tomato sauce. The plate was decorated with cherry tomatoes and segments of peeled grapefruit. It was very refreshing.
I couldn’t resist ordering their duck pate, although I had eaten it on my last visit. It is a rough kind of pate served in two thick slices that were meaty and lightly peppery, with an element of sweetness from a bit of dried fruit and some texture from pistachios. On the side were salty cornichons and a lovely little mesclun and tomato salad that had a pleasant, slightly bitter finish. Grain mustard could be added to the patem and slices of excellent baguette came on the side.
The only dish that I found to be somewhat uninteresting was the roasted-pepper braised lamb. It had been cooked until it was extremely tender, but it was bland. It needed something. The herbed rice pilaf that came with it was good, as were the caramelized onions on the side, but the glazed carrots and turnips added nothing to the dish.
On the other hand, the scallops were excellent. The pan-seared jumbo scallops had a beautiful brown crust and a moist interior. They rested on Yukon Gold mashed potatoes that may have been the best mashed potatoes I have ever eaten. Lemon thyme beurre blanc sauce surrounded the dish, providing the perfect finishing touch.
Pistachio-crusted sea bass, roasted veal medallions and petit filet mignon are the other entrees.
My companion and I finished our delicious meal with the dessert of the day, a chocolate pot de crème that was dense with a deep dark-chocolate flavor and a silky smooth texture.
We also made a selection from the three dessert crepes, opting for the La Crepe Rouge. Chef Laurent makes crepes that taste like they were made in Paris. The batter was just perfect, and the thin layers surrounded raspberries and strawberries in a red fruit gelee.
Bring your beret and a neck scarf, and pretend you are in Paris.
TERRY MARKOWITZ was in the gourmet food and catering business for 20 years. She can be reached for comments or questions at m_markowitz@cox.net.
*
BISTRO PAPILLOTE
Location: OC Mix, 3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa
Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Wednesdays, 9 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Thursdays through Saturdays, and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays
Prices:
Appetizers: $8 to $14
Entrees: $16 to $20
Desserts: $6 to $8
Wine:
Bottles: $19 to $50
By the glass: $8 to $12
Corkage: $20
Information: (949) 375-0749