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Photos: The Bazaar by José Andrés at the SLS Hotel

The Times' restaurant critic, S. Irene Virbila, says Los Angeles has never seen anything remotely like the Bazaar, an exciting restaurant from celebrated Spanish chef José Andrés at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills. The unique interior of the restaurant, which fills the hotel's first floor and is designed by Philippe Starck, is matched by Andres' creative and adventurous cuisine. Virbila gives it four stars — a rare ranking.

The Times’ restaurant critic, S. Irene Virbila, says Los Angeles has never seen anything remotely like the Bazaar, an exciting restaurant from celebrated Spanish chef José Andrés at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills.

The unique interior of the restaurant, which fills the hotel’s first floor and is designed by Philippe Starck, is matched by Andres’ creative and adventurous cuisine. Virbila gives it four stars — a rare ranking.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Michael Voltaggio prepares "Philly cheesesteak" tapas at the Bazaar by Jose Andres

Chef Michael Voltaggio, right, prepares “Philly cheesesteak” tapas, the Bazaar’s most popular item.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Watermelon and tomato skewers at the Bazaar by Jose Andres

Chunks of watermelon are topped with the seeds and insides of tomato and a dash of Pedro Ximénez reduction.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

"Philly cheesesteak" from the Bazaar by Jose Andres

One must-order item: The “Philly cheesesteak,” a torpedo-shaped roll that’s really just a thin shell of crust (Jose Andres calls it “air bread”) topped with thin slices of seared Kobe beef, with a wisp of cheese inside.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

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The Rojo tapas bar at the Bazaar has a view of the kitchen.

The best seats in the house are in the traditional Rojo tapas bar, with a view of the kitchen.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

Mini TVs show Fellini films at Bar Centro, in the Bazaar by Jose Andres.

Among Philippe Starck’s touches at Bar Centro inside the Bazaar: mini TVs that play Federico Fellini films.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

The bar at the Bazaar by Jose Andres at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills

Lights and glass panels adorn the bar at the Bazaar. Service The wine list has some terrific Spanish wines by the glass and by the bottle. Note that you have to ask for the full wine list.  (Michael Robinson Chavez / Los Angeles Times)

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