Guidebook: Checking Out Life in Costa Rica’s Clouds

Getting there: From LAX, direct service to San José is available on LACSA and TACA. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $627.

From San José there are two routes to Monteverde. The traditional “direct” route on the legendary dirt road approaches from the Pan-American Highway to the west, and the “new” route comes from the east via Tilarán and Lake Arenal. Many travelers arrive one way and depart the other. Both can be traveled by rental car (four-wheel drive is strongly recommended) or public or private bus. Public bus fares from San José begin at $5, private about $50.

When to go: During the rainy season from May through October, roads can become almost impassable, discouraging all but the most dedicated naturalists or die-hard adventurers. On the other hand, during the heart of the snowbird season from December to March, accommodations can become scarce (and more expensive), and tours and other activities frequently sell out.

Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 506 (country code for Costa Rica) and the local number.

Where to stay: There is no shortage of accommodations in the Monteverde area, with options ranging from basic rooms to eco-chic.

We stayed at the Swiss chalet-style Hotel Heliconia in Cerro Plano (mailing address: Aptdo. 10921-1000 San José), 645-5109, fax 645-5007, https://www.costaricabureau.com/heliconia.htm, paying $95 for a spacious double in the high season.

Other centrally located, top-end accommodations include the Sapo Dorado, 645-5010, fax 645-5180, https://www.sapodorado.com, doubles $74-$99; and the Monteverde Cloud Forest Lodge, 645-5058, fax 645-5168, https://www.monteverdeinfo.com/cloud-forest-lodge, doubles $60-$70. For a little more opulence and setting, try the Monteverde Lodge, 645-5057, fax 645-5126, https://www.monteverdelodge.com, where doubles are $115-$130 during high season.

Where to eat: Where you eat is going to be determined primarily by where you stay. After a full day of outdoor activity there is little incentive to venture too far down Monteverde’s dark, hilly dirt roads. As a result, most hotels have their own restaurants, though not always good ones.

For reliable quality, try the Sapo Dorado (see number above). We had a very good dinner there. Entrees are about $11-$14. Also recommended: Hotel Fonda Vela, 645-5125, https://www.fondavela.com (entrees about $11-$13) or Monteverde Lodge.

If breakfast doesn’t come with your bed, try Stella’s Bakery, 645-5560, or Paradise Bagel Café, 645-6081. And for good Italian fare, head to Pizza Johnny, 645-5066, which features more than its name implies (main dishes $8-$10, large pizzas $14-$21), or Restaurante de Lucia, 645-5337 (entrees $10-$12). All are on the road between the cloud forest reserve and the village of Santa Elena.

For more information: Consulate General of Costa Rica, 1605 W. Olympic Blvd., Suite 400, Los Angeles, CA 90015; (800) 343-6332 or (213) 380- 7915, fax (213) 380-5639, https://www.costarica.tourism.co.cr.

For more detailed information about the entire Monteverde area, visit https://www.monteverdeinfo.com. For specific information about the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, go to https://www.cct.or.cr and https://www.monteverdeinfo.com/reserve.htm.