Bathed in Budapest’s atmosphere

Getting there
From LAX, connecting service (stop, change of planes) is available on Lufthansa, KLM, Swiss, Air France, British, Delta and American, some connecting to Malev Hungarian. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,246.

Telephones
To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 36 (country code for Hungary), 1 (local code) and the number.

Where to stay
The Danubius Group operates the Hotel Gellert and the Thermal Hotel Margitsziget in Budapest. Both have thermal baths. The Gellert’s are classic, with stained glass and exquisite tiling. The more modern Margitsziget has large pools and open spaces.

The Hotel Gellert, 1 Szent Gellert Ter, 1111 Budapest; 889-5500, fax 889-5505, https://www.danubiusgroup.com/gellert . Doubles $207.

Thermal Hotel Margitsziget, Margitsziget, 1138 Budapest; 889-4700; fax 889-4988, https://www.danubiusgroup.com/thermalhotel . Doubles $180.

The Hotel Margitsziget, Margitsziget, 1138 Budapest; 329-2949, fax 340-4846, https://www.budapesthotels.com/hotels/margitsziget.asp . At this smaller, secluded place near the Thermal Hotel on Margit Island in the Danube, doubles with breakfast are $80.

Where to eat
Maxim, 23 II Kisrocus Utca, 316-0231, near the central bus station in Pest, has serviceable stews and chicken dishes and lots of Stalinist memorabilia on the walls. Entrees $5-$12.

Mori Borozo, 37 XIII Pozsonyi Utca, 349-8390, is an old, authentic Hungarian place, which means heavy meats and heavier sauces. Entrees $6-$12.

Rembetiko Piraeus, 2-3 Fovam Ter, 266-0292. Greece is only a couple of countries south, and Hungarians seem to like the fish and meats cooked in oil that are the staples there. Near the Great Market Hall. From $11-$17.50.

To learn more
Hungarian National Tourist Office, 150 E. 58th St., New York, NY 10155-3398; (212) 355-0240, fax (212) 207-4103, https://www.gotohungary.com.