Searching for whale sharks in Isla Holbox, Mexico

Octopus is on the menu at Milpa, a small restaurant in Isla Holbox, Mexico, opened in early 2016.

There is no menu at Isla Holbox’s El Chapulim. Chef Erik Winckelmann usually serves four main dishes each night, coming to diners’ tables to collect orders.

Empanadas are a house specialty at El Hornito Argento, opened in 2016 on Isla Holbox, Mexico.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Whale Shark Pier at Isla Holbox, Mexico.

Isla Holbox is part of Mexico’s Yum Balam Nature Reserve, one reason why growth has been limited.

Koy Lopez and his 2-year-old nephew Jack Toledo feed a raccoon, or maybe a coatimundi, near a freshwater spring on Isla Holbox, Mexico.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Even the busiest streets in tiny Isla Holbox, Mexico, are unpaved and dominated by pedestrians, bikes, golf carts and dogs.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Yalahau, a freshwater spring with bracingly cool water, is part of many boat tours around Isla Holbox, Mexico.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

The Posada Mawimbi is one of many rustic resorts on Isla Holbox, Mexico.

The tiny town of Isla Holbox, Mexico, includes many colorful murals, including one of a raccoon, or perhaps it’s a coatimundi.

After swimming with whale sharks, tourists visit an undeveloped beach at Isla Holbox, Mexico.

In the waters near Isla Holbox, Mexico, snorkelers swim alongside whale sharks, which are considered the largest fish on Earth.

Sunrise on Isla Holbox, Mexico.

On Isla Holbox, Mexico, vendors like this man peddle fresh coconuts for $2 each. He cuts the top off and inserts a straw so you can drink the coconut milk.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Even the busiest streets in tiny Isla Holbox, Mexico, are unpaved and dominated by pedestrians, bikes, golf carts and dogs.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Besides whale shark sightings from May through September, the turquoise waters off Isla Holbox, Mexico, offer colorful snorkeling.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

A cyclist relaxes on the beach at Holbox Island, Mexico.

Most cars are banned at Isla Holbox, where the streets are dominated by pedestrians, golf carts (you can rent one), scooters, bikes and dogs.

The bohemian-chic Hotel Casa Las Tortugas is one of the most stylish lodgings on Isla Holbox, Mexico.

Besides whale shark sightings from May through September, the turquoise waters off Isla Holbox, Mexico, offer colorful snorkeling.  (Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)