It’s showtime for sorrel

Look for sorrel in a supermarket and if you’re lucky, you might find tiny bunches hidden beneath the basil. And you’ll pay dearly for them. But head for the farmers market, and big bunches are yours for a song.

When my husband and I spot them, we immediately grab at least four or five. Not that this stash lasts long.

Sorrel is terrific in so many dishes, after all. It’s got that distinctive zing, which makes it work well with any savory dish that gets along with lemon.

And even better, sorrel develops a beautifully fluffy texture when it’s cooked, giving body to soups and sauces, while retaining all of its flavor.

Although sorrel does make cameo appearances year-round, spring is its showtime.

Not only is sorrel abundant, but it tastes best now. Its bright spinach-like leaves are farmers markets all over. You can choose younger leaves (they’re smaller and more tender) to toss into salads or layer in sandwiches such as BLTs for a little zip.

These baby leaves, just several inches long, are also good for cooking, but you’ll want the larger and more mature leaves for a stronger pucker.

It’s this very quality that gave the herb its name -- “sorrel” has Germanic origins that mean sour -- and plays a big part in what makes it so versatile.

This lemony tang has been my inspiration in the kitchen, and so instead of tucking lemon halves into a chicken before roasting, I tuck some chopped sorrel with garlic and shallots under the skin of chicken breasts before sauteeing them in butter.

For even more sorrel flavor, I make a white wine and cream sauce for the chicken using more of this herb. The sauce plays on two strengths of sorrel. One is that velvety consistency when cooked. The other is its easy relationship with cream; unlike lemon juice, sorrel won’t curdle it.

I often whip up a simpler sauce to serve with poached eggs for brunch -- a marvelous combination I learned from my husband’s Hungarian family.

The sauce is a perfect foil for the rich yolks. To make it, saute a tablespoon of shallots in butter, then add a pound of cleaned sorrel leaves. When they’re wilted, stir in more butter (about six tablespoons) bit by bit.

Finally, add half a cup of milk, a teaspoon of sugar, and some salt and white pepper to taste. Spoon some sauce onto a plate and put the poached eggs on top with a sprinkle of Hungarian paprika or snipped chives.

Sorrel isn’t limited to supporting roles, though. Give it top billing and it won’t let you down. Sorrel soup is a great example of this, making it one of my favorite springtime dishes. For me, it’s the best way to experience the pure essence of this herb. And the soup is luscious and satisfying, with or without cream.

Sorrel’s bright flavor makes it a fine match for fish as well. A creamy flan made with this herb is a perfect side dish, whether you’ve grilled, poached or baked the fish.

When shopping for sorrel, look for leaves that are bright green and crisp. To clean them, plunge the leaves into a sink of cold water to remove any dirt. If the leaves are thick and large, fold them in half and pull the stems off and discard.

Drain the leaves on paper towels, then spin-dry them in a salad spinner to remove excess moisture. You can do this ahead and store them in plastic bags in the crisper bin of the refrigerator.

Just be sure you have enough on hand. There’s no reason to miss out on sorrel, especially when it’s this good.

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Sorrel soup

Total time: 55 minutes

Servings: 6

Note: If you’d like to make a non-dairy version, omit the cream and use all 4 1/2 cups chicken stock. The soup will still be velvety. Alternately, this soup is delicious with a dollop of sour cream.

1 pound sorrel leaves

2 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup chopped leeks (1 or 2 leeks)

1 clove garlic, minced

4 to 4 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup whipping cream (optional)

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Chopped chervil or chopped chives

1. Wash the sorrel, discarding bruised or blemished leaves. Trim tough stems. Dry with paper towels or a salad spinner.

2. Stack the leaves and roll them lengthwise, then slice them crosswise into half-inch-thick strips.

3. Heat the butter in a large saucepot. Add the leeks and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 1 minute.

4. Add the sorrel and saute about 1 minute, until the sorrel wilts and turns olive green. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook 2 minutes.

5. Add the chicken broth (4 cups if using the whipping cream, 4 1/2 cups if omitting the cream) and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 30 minutes.

6. Remove from heat. Stir in the whipping cream, if using. Season with sugar, salt and pepper.

7. Puree the soup in a blender, in batches if necessary, until smooth and velvety. To serve, ladle into bowls and sprinkle with chopped chervil or chives.

Each serving: 148 calories; 5 grams protein; 7 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 12 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 37 mg. cholesterol; 252 mg. sodium.

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Sauteed chicken breasts stuffed with sorrel

Total time: 55 minutes

Servings: 4

Note: This is delicious served with fingerling potatoes.

3 1/2 cups finely chopped sorrel leaves, divided

1 clove finely minced garlic

2 tablespoons minced shallots, divided

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 1/4 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste, divided

Pepper

4 boneless skin-on chicken breasts (about 2 pounds)

1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) butter, divided

1 tablespoon fat drippings from cooking chicken

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup chicken broth

1/4 cup whipping cream

1. To make the stuffing, combine 1 1/2 cups chopped sorrel, garlic, 1 tablespoon shallots, olive oil, one-half teaspoon salt and pepper to taste.

2. Wash the chicken breasts and pat dry. Make a pocket for the stuffing by loosening the skin from one side of each chicken breast, leaving it attached on the other side as much as possible. Spoon the sorrel mixture under the skin of each chicken breast. Season the chicken with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Heat 3 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat in a large skillet until the butter melts and foams. Arrange the chicken breasts skin-side-down in the pan. Cook until nicely browned, about 10 minutes, then turn the chicken over. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue to cook until almost done, about 5 to 10 minutes longer.

4. Remove the chicken to a warm platter, cover with foil and let stand in a warm place while making the sauce.

5. Pour out all but 1 tablespoon drippings from the skillet. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon shallots and saute 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and stir to deglaze. Cook until the wine is reduced and syrupy-looking, about 3 minutes.

6. Add the remaining 2 cups chopped sorrel. Cook and stir until the sorrel is wilted and turns olive green, about 1 minute. Stir in the chicken broth. Bring to a simmer and cook about 5 minutes.

7. Add the cream, remaining three-fourths teaspoon salt and dash of pepper during the last minute of cooking. Pour the sauce into a blender and puree until smooth, then pour it back into the skillet. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter a little at a time, swirling the pan, until the sauce is slightly thickened and shiny.

8. To serve, slice the chicken breasts and spoon the sauce over.

Each serving: 474 calories; 51 grams protein; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 26 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 173 mg. cholesterol; 1,482 mg. sodium.

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Sorrel flan

Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes

Servings: 7

1/2 pound sorrel leaves

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 tablespoon butter, plus more to butter ramekins

1/2 cup milk

2 eggs

1 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Finely minced chives

1. Rinse the sorrel leaves under cold running water, then remove the tough stems. Drain on paper towels and spin the leaves in a salad spinner. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Saute the shallot in the butter in a large skillet or saucepot until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the sorrel and cook until the leaves are wilted and turn olive green, about 1 minute.

3. Spoon the sorrel into a blender. Add the milk and puree until smooth.

4. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a wire whisk just until well blended. Add the whipping cream and stir to combine. Add the sorrel mixture, salt and pepper and stir to combine.

5. Divide the sorrel mixture among 7 (3-ounce) buttered ramekins. If you do not have enough ramekins, you can bake the flans in batches. Place the ramekins in a large shallow pan and add warm water to come halfway up the sides of the dishes.

6. Bake until the flans are just set in the center and are puffed and slightly pulled away from the sides, about 45 to 50 minutes. Remove them from the oven and the water bath to a wire rack to cool slightly.

7. To serve, run a knife around the edge of each ramekin to loosen the edges and invert it onto a serving plate. Sprinkle the top of each flan with finely minced chives.

Each serving: 169 calories; 4 grams protein; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 16 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 113 mg. cholesterol; 373 mg. sodium.