A three-berry salute

Americans love their pies, in all seasons -- pumpkin in the fall, rhubarb in the spring, berry in the summer. But while the fresh bright raspberries, blueberries and strawberries of July fairly call out to be cradled in sweet crust, who wants to bake on a summer afternoon, turning the kitchen into a furnace and those beautiful berries into sticky-sweet mush? Two-crust pies, cobblers and betties are just the kind of comfort food that can feel heavy on a blazing day around the barbecue.

With a long weekend of Fourth of July entertaining just ahead, the Times Test Kitchen set out to develop a red, white and blue trio of no-bake fresh berry pies. These are new takes on some all-American favorites, with flavors and cooking techniques updated for our times. These pretty pies -- a blueberry cream pie, a raspberry wine pie and a strawberry and goat cheese pie -- are festive desserts that show off the abundance of the season. Perfect for summer entertaining, they’re easy, can be made ahead and use the refrigerator, not the oven.

Each pie uses a cookie-crumb crust that complements the filling. One basic crust recipe is easily varied to suit each pie. The cookies can be finely ground in a food processor or crushed in a plastic bag with a rolling pin. Use a spoon to press the crumb-butter mixture into the pie plate before chilling.

The blueberry cream pie is a three-layer confection of fresh berries; vanilla custard cooked on the stovetop, made light by constant whisking; and a flavorful berry-filled glaze. It’s in a pecan-cookie crust and is a sweet centerpiece for family gatherings. The uncooked berries offer a nice crunch to complement the soft custard.

Our tasters raved about the strawberry and goat cheese pie. Gorgeous red strawberries stud a tarragon-scented layer of savory goat cheese. The handsome presentation and surprising contrast between sweet fruit and tangy herbed cheese make for an impressive treat that’s shockingly simple to prepare. The cookie of choice to crumble for this crust is a simple butter cookie. For the best-looking pie, select large, deep-red berries of about the same diameter trimmed to match in height. And use a gentle hand in spreading the goat cheese so you don’t tear the crumb crust.

The combination of port and berries in our raspberry wine pie brings a real depth of flavor to the old-fashioned technique of folding gelatin and whipped cream together to create a mousse-like refrigerator pie.

The filling is light, loaded with sweet berries, and set off by a crust made of almond biscotti. Use really ripe berries for the best color and flavor. And when you crush them, be sure to leave some whole. They look beautiful when the pie is sliced, and add an exquisite burst of flavor.

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Raspberry wine pie

Total time: 30 minutes, plus 4 to 6 hours (or overnight) chilling time

Servings: 8

2 cups raspberries, divided

3/4cup port, divided

1 ( 1/4 ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons cold water

1/2 cup sugar

1/8teaspoon salt

1 cup whipping cream, whipped

9-inch almond biscotti pie crust, chilled

1. In a small bowl, combine half a cup of the raspberries and one-fourth cup of the port. Cover and set aside.

2. In a cup or small bowl, soften the gelatin in the cold water. Heat the remaining half cup port to simmering in a small saucepan. Add the gelatin to the hot wine and stir until dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes. Allow mixture to cool until just warm.

3. Place the remaining 1 1/2 cups of raspberries in a large bowl, sprinkle with the sugar and salt and gently crush with a fork, leaving some berries whole. Add the port mixture and stir gently.

4. Chill until the mixture begins to set. Fold in the whipped cream. Spoon into the chilled pie shell. Refrigerate until set, about 4 to 6 hours.

Each serving: 342 calories; 2 grams protein; 34 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 20 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 71 mg. cholesterol; 79 mg. sodium.

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Blueberry cream pie

Total time: 1 hour, plus 4 to 6 hours final chilling time (or overnight)

Servings: 8

3 egg yolks

2/3 cup plus 4 tablespoons sugar, divided

3 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch, divided

1 tablespoon flour

1/4teaspoon salt

1 1/2cups milk

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 (6-ounce) packages blueberries, divided

9-inch pecan shortbread crumb pie crust, chilled

1/4 cup water

1. Whisk the egg yolks in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan (away from heat). Add two-thirds cup of the sugar, 2 1/2 tablespoons of the cornstarch, the flour, salt and milk, whisking until blended, then cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until thick and bubbly, about 5 to 6 minutes. Do not overheat or the yolks will scramble. If necessary, pull the pan off the heat occasionally.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and add the butter, whisking until well blended. Pour into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Chill for 30 minutes, then stir in the vanilla.

3. Arrange half the blueberries in the bottom of the prepared crust. Spoon the chilled vanilla custard over. Chill in the refrigerator while you make the topping.

4. Combine the remaining 4 tablespoons sugar, the remaining 1 tablespoon cornstarch and the water in a small saucepan. Stir in the remaining blueberries. Heat to boiling, stirring until thickened and clear. Let the blueberries cool to warm, then spoon over the top of the vanilla custard. Chill 4 to 6 hours or overnight before serving.

Each serving: 332 calories; 4 grams protein; 45 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 16 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 111 mg. cholesterol; 146 mg. sodium.

*Strawberry and goat cheese pie

Total time: 30 minutes, plus 4 to 6 hours chilling time (or overnight)

Servings: 8

Note: Use ripe strawberries that are deep red.

3 cups whole strawberries, stems removed

1 (5-ounce) package goat cheese

2 tablespoons milk

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon

9-inch butter cookie crumb pie crust, chilled

3/4cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

2 teaspoons lemon zest

1/2cup water

1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar

1 cup sliced strawberries

1. Trim the stem ends of the berries so they will be the same height when placed in the bottom of the pie plate. Set aside.

2. Whip the goat cheese in a mixer or food processor until light. Remove to a bowl, add the milk and beat to blend. Add the tarragon and stir to mix.

3. Spread the cheese mixture evenly in the bottom of the pie crust. Arrange the whole berries, pointed side up, on the goat cheese, covering the entire surface of the pie. Set aside.

4. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, cornstarch, lemon zest, water and balsamic vinegar. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then add the sliced strawberries and continue to cook until thickened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Pour the hot glaze-strawberry mixture over the whole strawberries. Refrigerate until the glaze sets, about 4 to 6 hours.

Each serving: 300 calories; 5 grams protein; 43 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 13 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 43 mg. cholesterol; 125 mg. sodium.

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No-bake cookie crumb pie crust

Total time: 10 minutes

Servings: 8 (1 crust)

Note: To make the cookie crumbs, process cookies in a food processor or place in a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin.

1 1/2 cups almond biscotti, pecan shortbread or butter cookie crumbs

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup butter, melted

1. Place the cookie crumbs in a small bowl. Add the sugar and melted butter and toss with a fork until blended. Pat the crumbs evenly onto the sides and bottom of a 9-inch pie plate. Chill 30 minutes.

Note: Please see individual pie recipes for nutritional information.