She hands over another cup. "Now this is from the child of the last tree you just tasted. It tastes younger, doesn't it? Fresher and little less . . . wise?"
FOR THE RECORD:
Tea Habitat: An article about Tea Habitat, a South Bay tea emporium, on Aug. 19 said it was located in Rancho Palos Verdes. It is in Rolling Hills Estates. —
This is the next level of hard-core Chinese tea appreciation: dan cong oolong. You know how there's single-barrel bourbon and single-cask scotch? Well, this is single-tree tea. This means that every cup of dan cong you drink has been brewed from the leaves of one particular tea tree on the slopes of Phoenix Mountain in Guangdong. Each old dan cong tree is known, named, carefully tended and loved for its own peculiar character.
And America's only specialist in dan cong is right here in Southern California: Tea Habitat, a hidden jewel of high Chinese tea connoisseurship. It's in a Rancho Palos Verdes shopping mall, across from a T.J. Maxx.
Roy Shea, tea writer and regular customer, says that the quality and breadth of Shan's dan cong stock is unique in the Western world. "She's probably the best vendor for dan cong teas outside of Guangdong," Shea says.
Shan is owner, advisor and host. She's a bit of an obsessive, which shows around the shop. The paintings on the walls are hers. She collects orchids, and a few of them decorate the shop. There's a roaster in the corner, where she roasts her own tea. She makes her own wine. She even grows her own jasmine, for her jasmine tea.
The heart of her store is an ever-changing selection of about 30 varieties of high-grade dan cong. The majority of her dan cong trade is done via her website, www.teahabitat.com; most of her walk-in traffic just wants iced tea or something. They're all missing out. Shan's teas are superb, but the true treasure is the chance to drink tea with her.
Owner as teacher
Guided tastings and flights are what you want; Shan's tea knowledge is enormous, her brewing technique impeccable. She's studied with a tea master born and reared on the slopes of Phoenix Mountain. She knows the histories of particular trees and genetic lines. And her sensitivities are incredible; you can develop your palate just by sitting next to her, tasting and listening.
The thing about dan cong teas is, despite their rarefied status, they're not hard to appreciate at all. They're intense, radiantly beautiful teas. They have their mysterious depths to plumb, but they're also very direct teas, with obvious texture, fragrance and a clear, sensuous beauty.
These are powerful teas. Honey Orchid Fragrance dan cong is glowingly sweet and floral. Eight Immortals dan cong is low and warm, full of rich maltiness with a cut of copper, and the strange smell of citrus. One tree's tea tastes like fresh ginger flowers; another tastes like perfectly fresh mackerel sashimi. And Cattelya Orchid Fragrance dan cong feels like drinking a greenhouse.
These dan congs aren't flavored or adulterated in any way. This is pure tea leaf, named for some similarity in their natural flavor, noticed and named by some long-departed Chinese tea aficionado.
Each has its own texture, too, as you'll quickly learn if you do any tea tasting with Shan. There are three qualities that she seems to care about in equal proportion: aroma, flavor and texture.
The textures vary, but there's often astonishing substantiality and muscularity. There's an oiliness and almost chewiness to some of the teas; others are crisp and tingly, like sunshine on your tongue. Wild Hong Yin is so dense and thick, it feels almost like there's a tea tree root thrusting its way into your mouth.
These aren't teas that you brew once and discard. Even the cheaper dan cong -- called commercial grade -- can be brewed about three to five times before they tap out. But the real stuff, the single-tree stuff -- called "old tree" dan cong -- can go for 15 to 20 brewings, constantly evolving, constantly throwing out new smells and tastes. A warm, savory tea can suddenly become sweet; the smell of ginger can transmute into the smell of jasmine; mineral flavors rise and fall.
"The evolving of it, it's like old films," Shan says, "like when it was slow enough you could almost see it frame by frame, moving."
The high-grade dan congs may seem terribly expensive -- most of them float around $30 for a 1-ounce bag -- but loose-leaf tea is deceptive stuff. That bag will yield about 10 scoops of tea, so if you brewed each scoop only once, your exceptional tea would still cost only about the same amount as a cappuccino.