Blue-collar grapes in a revolution

Everyone loves an underdog, and from Italy’s northerly region of Piedmont comes the story of Barbera, a heartwarming “local boy makes good” kind of tale. In the minds of most American consumers of Piedmontese wines, the quotidian Barbera grape seemed destined to be eternally overshadowed by the more talented Nebbiolo, the grape of the regal wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. If Nebbiolo made a wine to be oohed and ahhed over, Barbera made a wine for, well, pizza. One made a wine that could sell for hundreds of dollars, the other made a wine that sold for $10.

But this is not how the Piedmontese see it. As Pio Boffo, head of Pio Cesare, a top estate, says: “Barbera is Piedmont.” And so it is: It’s the hearty, everyday wine that people drink, cook with and buy by the jug. With its tangy acidity, it goes with the robust fare of the region.

And that is why, in a rather touching display of love, affection and respect, an effort has been underway in Piedmont to elevate Barbera to the lofty standing of Nebbiolo. No longer should it be the light red, tart, acidic wine it was known as in the past: Viticultural and enological advancements have brought Barbera up to something approaching nobility, and the resulting wines are bigger, more intense, more delicious.

In fact, the most exciting developments from the region these days concern Barbera: a new denomination for high-end wines that has the strictest criteria of any region in Italy; a collaboration among five top Barbera producers to make a high-profile wine; and scores of sophisticated new wines that some have dubbed “Super Barberas.”

Foremost among the last is the wine that started it all, Braida’s Bricco dell’Uccellone. The man who created the wine in 1982, the late Giacomo Bologna, is a larger-than-life figure, described by all who knew him as outgoing, generous and a bit outrageous. Such adjectives could equally describe the wine -- in its remarkably round texture and depth of flavor, its price (much higher than any preceding Barbara) and its name (uccellone is Piedmontese slang for an important piece of the male anatomy).

Made from grapes grown on a hilltop plot near Asti, Bologna’s wine was one of the first to be aged in barriques (small, new oak barrels). That technique is more commonly employed in top wines from Burgundy to Bordeaux, but was unheard of for such an everyday wine as Barbera, which had been traditionally aged in large vats made from steel, concrete or much older oak -- a less expensive method, since costly new barrels need not be purchased every year.

Barriques can give wine a richness, suppleness and sense of roundness and depth that could hardly be realized otherwise, but not every wine is concentrated enough to successfully integrate the new oak flavors. New oak overwhelms thinner and less concentrated wines, so the base wine must be of a certain robustness to begin with, which, in the early ‘80s, much Barbera was not.

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From the roots, up

As other wineries began to follow Bologna’s lead, it became apparent that the key to making more profound Barbera was not just using barriques. The process needed to start in the vineyard.

This has led to an entire rethinking of where the grape is planted and how it is tended. After phylloxera had devastated Europe’s vineyards at the end of the 19th century, much Piedmont land was replanted with Barbera for its perceived virtues of high productivity and a general adaptability to many soils and climates. At one point, it accounted for almost 80% of Piedmont’s production; today it accounts for about 50%. But as winemakers began to realize that Barbera could produce a finer wine, its high productivity became an obstacle. So rather than planting it anywhere, vintners sought to plant particular low-yielding clones in soils where they specifically did well. Today, when it comes to Barbera, viticulture is everything.

Michele Chiarlo, led by Michele and sons Alberto and Stefano, has become a leader in the Barbera revival. Chiarlo’s La Court, a Barbera of magnificent quality, is from an eponymous single vineyard in the Asti region. (There are two major Barbera regions, Asti and Alba. The former is said to produce wines of more finesse, the latter, wines of greater power.) The 2000 offers lush aromas of blackberry and black cherry, along with dried herbs, smoke, and a roasted smell Alberto calls “il madre dell caffe” -- the mother of coffee. Balanced, complex and supple, this wine could serve as a model for the new generation of Barberas -- it’s not so internationally styled as to be over the top with oak, but it’s certainly not your grandmother’s rustic Barbera either.

The label of La Court bears the word “Nizza,” which refers to a new sub-denomination of the Barbera d’Asti region. So far, 35 producers have signed on, each from one of seven designated villages radiating outward from the central town of Nizza in Asti , in what is considered to be some of the best Barbera territory in the Piedmont. The requirements to earn the Nizza designation are the strictest in all Italy. Vineyards included in the designation must have a south or southwest exposure, and low yields are enforced. Finally, there’s a blind tasting panel, composed mostly of the producers themselves, which has the last word on whether a particular wine can put “Nizza” on its label.

The Chiarlos have also put together an all-star group of Barbera producers -- Braida, Coppo, Prunotto and Vietti -- to market a “Super Barbera” called Quorum, made by one of Italy’s top winemakers, Ricardo Cotarella. While proceeds from the $100-a-bottle wine go to charity, the wine is also intended to promote the denomination Barbera d’Asti. Even though Quorum was Cotarella’s first foray into Barbera, the results are superb, particularly the newly released 2001, which has a similar flavor profile to the Chiarlo La Court but is even more massive in body and structure. Since Quorum, a couple of other collaborations, involving such superstar producers as Scavino and Parusso, have followed.

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Beyond a rustic reputation

The question for Barbera in the United States will be whether Americans will see beyond its rustic image and go out and spring for the new wave versions, which range from $35 for La Court all the way up to $100 for Quorum.

Christian Navarro of Wally’s Wine and Spirits in West Los Angeles believes they can. “The sales of Barbera are increasing every day,” he says. “What we find is that when we sell them a bottle, they come back and buy a case. But it’s still a hand sell; you’ve really got to convince people that it’s good.”

How does he do that? “Well, the price for one.” Because it has yet to be “discovered,” there’s still a great price-to-quality ratio for most Barbera. Navarro also points out that it’s a fabulous food wine, which “just seems to go well with almost everything, particularly grilled fare and warmer weather.”

At Valentino, wine director Julian Zaragoza has both ends of the Barbera spectrum covered. His most expensive, Voerzio, Pozzo Annunziata, sells for $260 (for the 1985, 1990 and 1995 vintages), while his least expensive, 1999 Fontanafredda Raimonda, is $30. Yet Zaragoza says he still sells much more Barolo and Barbaresco than he does Barbera. “People often come here looking for the big wines,” he says. “While we love to turn people on to Barbera, our customers frequently want to go with a more familiar wine.”

That said, Zaragoza loves Barbera’s unique ability to bridge the class gap, to go with a hearty meat dish (such as buffalo filet in a marrow and cheese crust wrapped in guanciale) as it does with a simple bowl of pasta.

And that’s the real beauty of the Barbera revolution. It brings together the high and the low, reminding us of life’s important lesson that what is humble can be made regal and what is regal may have come from humble roots.

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From workhorse to thoroughbred

At the less expensive end of the price spectrum, Barberas are fruity, succulent wines that are often great values. At the high end can be found sophisticated, complex wines that can compete with the best in the world.

2001 Pio Cesare Barbera d’Alba ($25). This gorgeous Barbera d’Alba has aromas of violets and black cherry, a lush, silky texture and pleasing density. Available at Vineyard Outlet in Camarillo and Victor’s Liquors in Los Angeles.

2001 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti “La Orme” ($11). Chiarlo’s basic Barbera is a lively wine animated by bright red fruit and a bit of spice on the palate. Sprightly acidity begs for meats from the grill. It’s also a great value. Available at Beverages and More in West Hollywood.

2001 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti “La Court” ($40). An earthy nose that suggests black cherry, crushed rock and roasted coffee beans precedes long flavors and soft tannins. It’s round but well-structured. Available at Wally’s Wine and Spirits in West Los Angeles.

2000 Braida Bricco dell’Uccellone ($60). The wine from Giacomo Bologna that started it all is still being made by his children. Aromas of bitter chocolate, black cherry and violets emanate from a lush, velvety wine with intense fruit and soft, round tannins. Available at Wally’s.

2001 Mauro Molino Barbera d’Alba Vigna Gattere ($16). Offers aromas of currant, violet, rose and cassis in the aroma, and currant flavors and rich, texturized tannins on the palate. Available at Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey.

2001 Domenica Clerico Barbera d’Alba Trevigne ($18). Chocolate, coffee, black cherry and cassis on the nose. Sweet, bright fruit is structured by well-integrated acidity and smooth, super-fine tannins that animate the long finish. Available at Wine Club in Santa Ana.

2001 Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne ($15). A rich, full-bodied wine with luscious, ripe berry fruit, well-integrated acidity and good structure. Fairly heavily wooded, the scent of oak should diminish over the next six months. Available at Wine House in Los Angeles.

-- Jordan Mackay