2000 Domaines Bunan ‘Moulin des Costes’ Bandol Rouge

The hills around the tiny port of Bandol in southern France form a natural amphitheater turned toward the sun. In a landscape right out of a Jean Giono novel, vintners have been growing the Mourvedre grape for centuries.

One of my favorite Bandols is the Moulin des Costes rouge from Domaines Bunan, which is a blend of Mourvedre with a little Grenache and Syrah. The 2000, just out, is a gorgeous, full-bodied wine with a big perfume and ripe smooth tannins that tastes of dark plums and cherries and wild herbs.

Drink it now or put it away for a year or two. Bandol shows its stuff with big, bold flavors: grilled leg of lamb or chops, pork ribs, or a Provencal daube cooked with red wine and olives.

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Quick swirl

Region: Provence

Price: About $25

Style: Full-bodied and lush

Food it goes with: Grilled leg of lamb or chops, daube

Where you find it: Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX; the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; selected Beverages & More stores.

-- S. Irene Virbila