Quick swirl: 2005 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Rosso di Montalcino

It's such a beauty, this Rosso di Montalcino from the old and respected Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona estate, which holds some of the best vineyards in the Brunello di Montalcino appellation. A baby Brunello, 100% Sangiovese Grosso, it's a gorgeous ruby red, laced with flavors of dark cherries, sweet spices and a light touch of oak. It's racy and full of life, let loose on the world a year or so after the vintage while its more restrained elder brother, Brunello di Montalcino, has to wait a full 50 months. This is the wine to drink with bistecca alla Fiorentina (a char-grilled, 2-inch-thick T-bone), or a bowl of earthy pasta fagioli. It would be terrific with sausages or a mixed grill, and with heartier pasta dishes too.

-- S. Irene Virbila