THIS WEEK: FRIED OYSTERS

It’s the last month containing an R for a while, so get your oysters now. Purists who prefer to slurp theirs might scoff, but we like ‘em best fried.

ASANEBO

It’s hard to say which is better, the custardy housemade sesame tofu or the fried oyster special: tender butter lettuce leaves cupping perfectly fried Hama Hama oysters topped with a housemade aioli and julienned cabbage. We love the play of the hot, creamy oysters against the cool lettuce. 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 760-3348

GULFSTREAM

The chefs at this clubby Houston’s sib start with freshly shucked Pacific oysters, typically big, meaty Rainiers, which they dip in buttermilk and roll in seasoned flour. These are quickly fried so they gently crisp on the outside but stay super juicy within. They’re served half a dozen to an order with a snappy green olive relish. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 553-3636

SANTA MONICA SEAFOOD

It’s a little-known secret that at the O.C. outpost of this swell seafood purveyor you can pick just about anything in the case and have ‘em cook it up for you at the in-house cafe for a $2 surcharge. This includes oysters, which get coated in rice flour seasoned with Cajun spices, then take a plunge in the deep fryer. You can even enjoy them at one of the outside tables with a glass of wine. 154 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 574-0274

R23

While you could easily drop a lot of money ordering sushi at this cool but sophisticated Japanese spot -- complete with corrugated cardboard chairs -- the fried oyster lunch special is just $10. And it’s completely satisfying. A half dozen oysters in crispy panko jackets are served with a bowl of rice, a tangy secret sauce akin to okonomiyaki sauce, creamy potato salad and Japanese pickles. 923 E. 2nd St., Little Tokyo, (213) 687-7178

THE CREOLE CHEF

Chef Norman Theard isn’t from Louisiana, but both his parents are New Orleans natives, so he’s got the genes. And it shows in the excellent po-boy he makes at this quaint Baldwin Hills Mall-adjacent eatery. Plenty of cornmeal-crusted Chesapeake Bay oysters are tucked into sliced and buttered French bread. Feeling decadent? Add a side of sweet potato fries with andouille dressing. 3715 Santa Rosalia Drive, L.A., (323) 294-2433

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